Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Radiator upgrade

Ok so i have always had some problems with the cooling system in my r33 GTS-T, even before i reinstalled the turbo, but now that i have it seems the the condition has become much more frequent (note i have a massive, not my choice, front mount on the car and can only assume that it must be helping the problem, when the car overheated when N/A the front mount was still installed). the latest time has got me thinking about replacing the radiator completely so the engine has more room for error, i cannot find leaks anywhere and i have seen the water boil past the cap valve so i assume this means that the system is capable of holding atleast a little pressure (i have replaced the cap incase that was the reason aswell).

So my main question is there a decent-ish aftermarket upgrade for around $300, i have seen people rave about koyos but they all seem to be out of my price range, so far i have found

http://justjap.com/cooling-pro-alloy-radiator-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-stagea-rb25-rb26.html which is around $250 shipped 

or 

http://worleyautoparts.com.au/product/alloy-radiator-for-nissan-pintara-skyline-r33-r34-auto-manual-1993-2003-atmt/ for $150

basically i would just like to know your opinions on what the problem could be and/or any preferences on the brand of radiator for relatively cheap.

 

Cheers

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469834-radiator-upgrade/
Share on other sites

the water pump seems to be fine, the water definitely circulates through the system.

the radiator has no massive dents in the fins but the coolant has become murky rather quickly after the last flush, not sure where that is coming from though.

and i currently has the stock clutch fan and shroud with what i assume is a stock thermo fan (not too sure on that it might actually be on the ac but i've never seen it kick in before it actually starts to overheat) which now that i type this seems a little strange, the a/c getting warm is the first sign in the car that it is starting to overheat which might be the thermo kicking in.... i have no idea now. 

 

 

Edited by joseph0205

Get the Worley one if you're not making massive power. I used to track my car with that and was decent, until I starting making modest power.

Just file down the thermoswitch port down flat, they are always jagged and don't seal too well out of the 3 I've seen and installed. 

5 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Reverse flush your radiator and flush your block and heater cores.

I recently flushed the whole system and it worked fine for about 3 months. i drove 8hrs straight one day about a month after and the temps were fine but i barely made it .5hrs 3 days ago without over heating on a rainy day. Could this just be really settled gunk somewhere in the engine?

And anyone else have opinions on Worleys?

I have also found a moshimoto for ~$460 shipped http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/mishimoto-nissan-skyline-r33-performance-aluminum-radiator.html

Or a fenix for $360

http://www.sprparts.co.nz/fenix-race-alloy-radiator-nissan-r33-r34-c34-c35.html

Not saying its the solution just yet but should i just go the cheap $150 worley (the car probably makes just barely over stock power, but i have possible plans to try to hit the 300kw marks so not massively stressing the car) or should i bite the bullet and spend the 2-3x more on a decent-ish brand now?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...