joseph0205

So by looping the blue-white wire on the relay found in the boot to 12v everything starts and runs beautifully and by what i can find about a standard R33 GTST that's just how it is done (the first picture). However, unless this blue-white wire talks the long way and runs from the power source in the boot, through the cabin and back again to get 2 inches away from where it started it must be doing something else. I also found a RB26DETT wiring diagram that does have the blue-white wire running to the front and into the O2 sensors on both the turbos. SO is there something different with the series 2 R33 or do i have a RB26DETT Loom in my car with a 25DET engine. I need to use the car so I am just going to wire it for now but any insight would be great. Cheers, Joe

Yeah, it's all in the boot that's why I was thinking over doing it while I have it all apart. And the trigger wires LOOK fine but I was asking which trigger wire I should be using, the black-pink from the ECU that powers the whole FPCU system or if I should leave it be and just replace the FPCU with a relay and use the orange trigger wire?

You don't happen to have the full photo or atleast know where pin 2 on the fuel pump relay goes to? Cheers, Joe

I have tried hooking a solid connection straight to the grey wire connection of the FPCU to ground and nothing has changed, so it is either the wire itself or something else i don't know. I have drawn a little mud map of what i believe is the wiring diagram but i can't really make sense of it myself. So the black-pink/purple wire into the relay in the boot is the trigger from the ecu which must mean the blue-white is either a ground or 12v supply from somewhere (depending if the ECU pulls the black-pink/purple to ground or if it supplies it 12v) however, it didn't show any voltage or continuity with ground. (from memory i believe the black-pink/purple showed like 4M ohm to ground while the car is switched off so i assume that the ECU drops it to ground). Now the light blue wire branches of to 3 places, the input of the FPCU, the front of the car somewhere and the main line into the positive side of the fuel pump. The grey wire is what i believe to be the switch for the fuel pump by allowing it to connect to ground when the FPCU is happy (maybe i should buy it flowers or something, it doesn't seem to like me much) and gets triggered by an orange wire that i believe i have read is triggered by the ECU only when it senses the engine is turning (using either the force or the CAS, neither would surprise me at this point). this grey wire also runs to a random connector which is apparently a ballast hidden in the boot somewhere. Black is just the ground for the FPCU. So my questions are: 1. Which of the black-pink or blue-white should be showing voltage and/or ground? 2. if i were to do away with the FPCU should i just have the relay trigger from the orange trigger line or go back further? 3. WTH does a ballast do? 4. How big was the average Japanese factory worker in 1998? EDIT: I'm also planning on possibly future-proofing this whole system if i ever go for bigger power, will the light blue and grey wires handle, say a walbro 460 (probably never need it i just don't want to strip the car and wiring down like this again, just swap to a bigger fuse and go for it) or should i replace them with something beefier, i figure to handle up to 30amps. Will the ballast (whatever the hell that does) handle it? Thanks for your help so far, Joe

That IS good news ? what is the use of the FPCM does it control the pump with PWM or is it just one of the Japanese complexity for the hell of it type deals (IE the idle air system). Do you happen to know the colour of the ECU trigger wire? Also there is already a large relay attached to what look like the main wires of the fuel pump attached to the side of the boot fuse box but it looks very OEM so I may have the wrong thing (I just matched the wire colours and that's never reliable) Anyway, thanks for the terrific news Joe

I have found that the pump runs perfectly when just wired straight to the battery and the car will start and run beautifully so its down to either the wiring or the fuel control module which is conveniently hidden under the rear seat, wish me luck?

Ok, so, I've been having problems with starting my 98 R33 Gts-t recently. It can vary from turning over and never firing to starting but running very poorly and stalling to working fine seemingly at random. On more than one occasion, by playing with the fuel pump wiring, fuse or plug the car will start and run perfectly, i do not know if this is the actual problem because it seems so intermittent however, i do know that the car will run roughly/stall without the fuel pump plugged in (I swear I didn't forget to connect it, i was "testing"). If anyone has had a problem similar to this and fixed it that would be great to hear but being vague and intermittent I don't hold much hope. The real meat of this post is, if i were to replace the pump is there a nice drop in replacement that doesn't cost and arm and a leg while not being from the Chinese lucky dip bag on ebay? my other thought was to upgrade to a Walbro 255 (GSS340) or a Bosch 040 because eventually my plan is to buy something reliable and diesel (and high off the ground so ramps aren't necessary for everything ) and throw some money into this car so i figured i may as well plan for power as i'm most likely to get a new car within a year. But i have read mixed things about both the bosch and walbro from a general trawl through the forums, is there a clear winner? Also if i do end up going this option, do I have to upgrade the wiring to the pump and what is the best way to go about this, my thoughts are to use the current power wires to trigger a separate fused relay. Anyway, thanks in advanced for any help Joe

Pretty much as the title says, I have a 97 R33 and the engine does not like to idle comfortably. On start up and warm up it revs itself to 1.5 to 2k which I assume is pretty standard but once it is warm it will drop right down to 300 to 500 (going by the tach it might be slightly higher but not much) and feels like it's a Cummins instead of an RB. The worst part is rolling up to a set of lights, if I don't engine brake the whole way it will stall and I have to blip the revs whenever I have the clutch in. Once it recovers it will idle, but will feel rough (usually around 700, slow enough that the aircon doesn't really work, also another problem I have with the car, the aircon won't be cold lower than 1.2 to 1.5k rpm, I assumed this was a part of the previous issue). The exhaust also smells quite fuely. The car is pretty much stock apart from a front mount, BOV (which is set to full recirculation anyway) and a pod filter and always runs 98 I do plan on eventually putting a haltech or equivalent ecu once I find the funds but that could be years off so any help fixing this would be great, Thanks in advance Joe

i wasn't too sure on the 9psi number thats why i wrote "i believe" basically i know it runs around the 350mmHg mark on the stock boost gauge and i did a very rough conversion and came up with 9ish. yes i know that im not trick the ECU i also explained myself poorly again obviously, i was just simply trying to say that there is no need for the car to be at 4500RPM to trigger the ECU to allow the boost gauge up to the fully 7psi yet also allowing the ECU to not freak out that the boost controller isn't working. the rest of it thought doesn't sound so positive, i will try gapping the plugs down to 0.8mm before i go throwing massive money at new coils when i have some spare time (bloody mid-sem exams )

ok so maybe it was my choice of the word 'bypassing' that was wrong, the boost controller and all of the vac lines run exactly where they would in a stock car, all i have done is grounded the signal to the solenoid (from the ECU ) so it it thinks that the car is doing 4500rpm or what ever is needs to trip the "high" boost mode in the ECU (the original post that im referencing is here: The BOV is plumbed straight back into the front of the turbo and IS fully recirculating unless they are designed to have a small opening even when in fully recirc mode (but i assume this wouldn't be the case) i also cannot find/hear any leaks on this recirc line.

from everything i have read it allows the turbo to push the full 7-8 psi at all times/well the engine can actually physically make that much boost using the grounding trick from this forum. also the BOV is GFB branded and can fully recirc which is what i always run it on anyway, can it still be causing the problem?

yeahh the price between 91 and 98 was close to 70c/l different (it was a very remote servo) and i didn't think it was as bad as you guys have mentioned, it was also all open highway driving so i wasn't really pushing the car hard at all. yeahh stock turbo and ECU running wastegate pressure (9PSI i believe) all i've really done to the car since owning it is get it back to stock plus the FMIC, intake and exhaust system and bypassing the 2-stage boost control, it also has a aftermarket BOV but i believe the previous owner just added it for the extra wank factor. also i recently cleaned the AFM while reinstalling the turbo but i might hit it again

Sputtering under load and idle Ok so i refitted the turbo to my 97 R33 GTS-t on the Christmas break and have noticed that under load (say 80km/h in 5th or 60 in 4th) if i put my foot down the car will reach about 2.5K and start jerking and sputtering eventually evening out at 3-3.5k. when i first noticed it i was running 91 from united (so it was probably half water anyway) so i ran a full tank of BP 91 and injector cleaner through it and the problem was less noticeable but not gone completely. the next step was to run bp 98 through it to see it i was just running too low of an octane rating which didn/t change anything (what is the downside of running a lower octane BTW, engine damage or just terrible economy/running?). also sometimes when cold (idling at 1.5k to warm up), the engine will slightly miss every couple seconds but i assume this might just be a sign of the cars age. So am i looking at rubbish injectors or should i start looking at the coils or spark plugs (the plugs probably only have 10k on them and no idea about the injectors or coils). For note the car is running just off stock (basically pod filter, front mount, a 3.5" exhaust and bypassing the 2-stage boost controller) Cheers guys

I recently flushed the whole system and it worked fine for about 3 months. i drove 8hrs straight one day about a month after and the temps were fine but i barely made it .5hrs 3 days ago without over heating on a rainy day. Could this just be really settled gunk somewhere in the engine? And anyone else have opinions on Worleys? I have also found a moshimoto for ~$460 shipped http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/mishimoto-nissan-skyline-r33-performance-aluminum-radiator.html Or a fenix for $360 http://www.sprparts.co.nz/fenix-race-alloy-radiator-nissan-r33-r34-c34-c35.html Not saying its the solution just yet but should i just go the cheap $150 worley (the car probably makes just barely over stock power, but i have possible plans to try to hit the 300kw marks so not massively stressing the car) or should i bite the bullet and spend the 2-3x more on a decent-ish brand now?

the water pump seems to be fine, the water definitely circulates through the system. the radiator has no massive dents in the fins but the coolant has become murky rather quickly after the last flush, not sure where that is coming from though. and i currently has the stock clutch fan and shroud with what i assume is a stock thermo fan (not too sure on that it might actually be on the ac but i've never seen it kick in before it actually starts to overheat) which now that i type this seems a little strange, the a/c getting warm is the first sign in the car that it is starting to overheat which might be the thermo kicking in.... i have no idea now.

Radiator upgrade Ok so i have always had some problems with the cooling system in my r33 GTS-T, even before i reinstalled the turbo, but now that i have it seems the the condition has become much more frequent (note i have a massive, not my choice, front mount on the car and can only assume that it must be helping the problem, when the car overheated when N/A the front mount was still installed). the latest time has got me thinking about replacing the radiator completely so the engine has more room for error, i cannot find leaks anywhere and i have seen the water boil past the cap valve so i assume this means that the system is capable of holding atleast a little pressure (i have replaced the cap incase that was the reason aswell). So my main question is there a decent-ish aftermarket upgrade for around $300, i have seen people rave about koyos but they all seem to be out of my price range, so far i have found http://justjap.com/cooling-pro-alloy-radiator-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-stagea-rb25-rb26.html which is around $250 shipped or http://worleyautoparts.com.au/product/alloy-radiator-for-nissan-pintara-skyline-r33-r34-auto-manual-1993-2003-atmt/ for $150 basically i would just like to know your opinions on what the problem could be and/or any preferences on the brand of radiator for relatively cheap. Cheers

Ok so the last picture i posted wasn't at the best angle (it looks like the random hose i'm holding is going into the FPR bung). Turns out i shouldn't trust anything on this car, the hose i was holding ran into the body work but i found the other end and it was plugged up (the guy who owned it had a habit of running extra/unneeded wires, like the 4 set of RCA leads to a single sub). Cheers for all the help guys i've finally got my head wrapped around this mess and now all i have to do is plug the hole he added to the plenum to run what i think was a boost gauge.... some people... Cheers again.

Ok so i got the boost controll side all sorted. But im assuming this plug in the plenum goes to the random tube in the second picture of my first post? Any ideas what this is? The BOV and boost gauge are already plugged in Cheers

Turbo Lines Help I have just finished re-turboing my r33 gtst but i am unsure where all of the vacuum lines need to connect. The first photo shows the t-piece with A going to the blow-off return pipe on the intake of the turbo. B goes to the waste gate actuator and C to the boost controller (with the other controller connection going to the intake). IS this correct? and does it matter which side plugs into the connectors of the boost controller (currently the t piece goes to the bottom of the controller) Also this may or may not be related but there is another random hose left unplugged on the drivers side near the boost gauge (but isn't the boost gauge line) that disappears down into the body work. its also not the rear windscreen washer either. I bought this car off an older guy a couple years back and was given the turbo pieces in a box with them assembled roughly as seen in the photos but i have learnt to not trust him after seeing his electrical work (exposed, permanently live wires simply twisted together and run across the airbag sensor) so i have little faith that it is correct. Cheers in advance, Joe

Messaged you

WTB r33 gtst blow off pipes and tacho I just finished refitting the turbo to my r33 but i am missing the blow off recirc pipe and the breather return pipe that both return to the turbo intake. I am also looking for a replacement tacho or whole instrument cluster that i can use for parts

Is the cluster still available?

R33 GTS-T Aircon Problems So just in time for a north queensland summer my aircon on my 1997 R33 GTS-T has decided to only blow hot air. Before this it would ONLY blow cold air when set to 18 degrees and turn to full heater when set to 19 or above, i believe this is a problem with the internal temp sensor or the sun load sensor (i ran the diagnostic test on the head unit) and have found the they may just need cleaning. However now there is absolutely no cold air at all and no discernible load put on the engine when the A/C is switched on as it always used to. I found the problem to possibly be that all the gas had leaked out of the compressor side hose, which filled the activation wire with oil/water. Although, as i am a cheap uni student, i was hoping it wasn't in need of a regassing so i decided to check the plug itself and found that even when the A/C signal and relay sensors are on (shown by the consult port from the ecu) the wire running into the compressor was only registering 0.3Volts (which is what it was showing even when off so i assume it is a background noise voltage or something) so im unsure whether it should be a positive voltage or if it should be earthed . I also know that somewhere there will be a low pressure sensor but as i could not see any more wires running to the compressor i assumed this would all be self contained. So my questions are: -Should there be a 12v signal or earth applied to the compressor to engage the clutch -is there any other wires that i have not seen running into the compressor -if i manually send a 12v/earth signal to the compressor will i cause any issues (just to check if the clutch is engaging and the problem is i am just out of gas) and then less importantly -are the internal temp sensors standardised as i can't seem to find a replacement and finally does anyone actually have a sun load sensor (from all i've seen in forums everyone seems to get this error) Thanks in advance Joe

well after much trial and error i still could not find out how the hazards worked. the only thing i am certain on now is that the wiring diagram i found for the alarm online is not even close to what is actually in my car (one of the previous owners did some really sketchy/weird electrical stuff throughout the car so im not surprised) Anyway i had come to the same conclusion as you, just using the parker lights instead. Thanks for your help

Hi, I have owned my r33 gtst for a couple of years now and ever since i got it the first thing i noticed was that when lock or unlocking the car only the drivers side indicator flashes. I was just wondering it anyone knew how to connect it to the hazards ( the alarm is an autowatch 446rli, there are 2 wires that create a 12 volt circuit to trigger the indicators). My main problem is not being able to grasp how the hazards activate. Thanks in advanced for any help, Joe