Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hitting a curb at 60kmh

Hey, so last night i was on my way home from work. Long story short, i stupidly caught my front right wheel against a small island and it jolted the car hard. 

I was travelling at around 55- 60 kmh. The front right rim is rashed pretty hard, as i currently have stretched tyres on. I came straight home about 2 min away from the island. I'm not sure if i was being paranoid but when i pulled into my driveway (Over a bump) i heard a bad noise from the front right side that i wouldn't normally hear. I inspected today as i haven't driven it. No tyres damage, just the rim as i had stretched tyres. The wheel is rashed bad, but i can't tell if any other damage as i haven't taken the wheel off. 

What do you guys recommend? I don't want to drive it and risk any further damage (Hoping it is not damaged). I'm Worried about driving it out to check if any damage. 

Bearing in mind i don't have crazy money. What do you guys recommend? Please help!!!! 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469984-hitting-a-curb-at-60kmh/
Share on other sites

First things first, jack the car up and take a look at your brakes and suspension.. Inspecting this carefully will show you is any damage has occurred. If you aren't sure what you're looking at, grab some images from google (or here somewhere). If all else fails take both front wheels off and compare the front sides of the car.

If you have done something it could be something very silly (like the guard liner dislodging) just take a look and you'll be able to spot any problems.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Steve85 said:

First things first, jack the car up and take a look at your brakes and suspension.. Inspecting this carefully will show you is any damage has occurred. If you aren't sure what you're looking at, grab some images from google (or here somewhere). If all else fails take both front wheels off and compare the front sides of the car.

If you have done something it could be something very silly (like the guard liner dislodging) just take a look and you'll be able to spot any problems.

 

3 hours ago, jmknights93 said:

Your alignment would be way out if you've bent anything such as the front lower control arm or rack end. So the short drive home would determine if the alignments out.   

 

Hey guys so i can't remove the wheel until tomorrow as my friend has my trolley jack... 

I took a closer look, and did as much investigating as i could. The upper ball joints on either side are fine, and from what i can see so far the springs and shocks look to be fine. I cannot check the lower ball joints or tie rods until tomorrow....

However i did find something that has worried me. I have attached the image below. There is a gap between the ball join connecting to the control arm (i think) on both sides of the car. Is it supposed to be like this? Or am i stressing over nothing? Image below 

17911069_1553803647985766_730288204_n.jpg

1 hour ago, The Max said:

Of course it needs to be that way ... the ball joint needs room for movement.

Thank goodness! AHAH. I took it out yesteday for about 4 hours, and i was driving real smooth. At one junction i accelerated hard and it didn't feel good, and the front right side is making creeking noises when going over bumps and dips... Any suggestions? Ill need to take the wheel off soon and suss 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • R34DE as in R34 with an RB25DE? So did you get this? Or you planning to?  I'm not really sure what you're saying. 
    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
×
×
  • Create New...