Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25 with Thinner MLS Headgasket (0.76mm)

I've done a lot of searching but haven't found anyone who has tried this before (possibly for a good reason?).

My R33 is a track car and I'm rebuilding my RB25DET after cracking a piston ringland, I was running E17 but will be going E85 for the extra safety that offers. For the time being I will be continuing to use standard pistons (with a hone and new rings).

I'm considering ARP head studs as I'm getting sick of buying single use OEM bolts (this is the third time the head has come off now) and I'm looking at a MLS head gasket for the same reason.

My calculations seem to indicate that going from the stock head gasket (1.1mm compressed) to a 30 thou head gasket (0.76mm) will raise my compression ration to 9.3 which would be a nice bump with E85 use (standard turbo, with plans to go highflow later on).

Has anyone attempted this before (or shaved the block for the same effect)? My main concern is the effects this will have on the quench area, I'm using standard cams so valve clearance should be okay.

This idea is swimming around in the back of my head that I am considering, because I'm still running the standard headgasket at 326 kw on 22psi and I would like to change the head gasket and swap over to ARP studs.  

Will be following this thread.

measure your piston deck height, you might find the rb25 pistons have positive deck height. Yes your main concern will be your quench height which shouldn't be less than .75mm. Even with that height you might find you get a bit of noise after carbon build up on top of the piston, but that takes a while too. 

Thanks guys - looks like I'll have to do some careful measuring as no one seems to have info on factory clearances... I will also be allowing room for rod stretch. As Dale said, carbon build up won't be an issue with E85 or the amount of use it gets.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...