Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, TimmyMA70 said:

I have access to a more industrial type of bead blasting cabinet. The media in it is glass base. It's excellent as it doesn't blast too deep and is good for finer objects.

 

Nice. Its done a great job!

2 hours ago, TimmyMA70 said:

I really like the GTIR bonnets, they are unique and are a 90's icon. Although unfortunately I believe they belong on one car, a GTIR. 

1

You're not one of these crazys who thinks GTR badges are for GTRs only are you?!?

 

  • Like 2
10 hours ago, PranK said:

Nice. Its done a great job!

You're not one of these crazys who thinks GTR badges are for GTRs only are you?!?

 

Ahh yes and no. A GTR badge is a much more subtle change VS a very unique bonnet. I also think that the gtir bonnet is the most overdone mod to an Aus N14. Nearly any N14 with P plates on it has the IR bonnet. Plus I'm anal as hell, and those vents are only going to let water drip down onto the rocker cover and plug leads (GTIR has a cover which goes over the top of the leads) :5_smiley:

You are dead on about the Gtir bonnet. :laugh:

Had a Gtir and even with the cover it was basically useless.

When it rained, it constantly had water running into the lead recess and caused issues!

Would put out cylinder 1 plug and it would be covered in old rusty water.

WD40 x 10000 

  • Like 1
19 hours ago, intercpt said:

You are dead on about the Gtir bonnet. 

Had a Gtir and even with the cover it was basically useless.

When it rained, it constantly had water running into the lead recess and caused issues!

Would put out cylinder 1 plug and it would be covered in old rusty water.

WD40 x 10000 

 

Hahaha, my suspicions verified. I don't think I could handle it.

You get it though. :P

  • Like 1

Alright guys:

Calipers are officially rebuilt. Extremely happy with them!

20170624_102459_zpsq5lvxnb8.jpg

So previously rear brakes upgrade on an N14 was limited to GTIR rear calipers OR GTIR calipers with A32 Maxima rear caliper carriers (brackets) to space the caliper out to fit a 278mm rear A32 Maxima rotor in there. The issue with this is GTIR use a 33mm hat height rotor and A32 use a 45mm hat height. So you would have to put a 22mm spacer in between the hub and the rotor.

I have done some searching and discovered that the 2002 - 2005 Ford Focus ST170 rear rotors are 280mm, 33mm hat height. The only things required to make them fit is change the PCD from 4x108 to 4x100 and machine out the centerbore from 64mm to 68mm. Basic machining. The rotor thickness is also 10.3mm VS 9mm Worst case scenario the rotor may need a skim to get them to fit.

Machining should happen this week, hopefully do a fit up next weekend.

20170624_103130_zps33y5vdoa.jpg

20170624_103120_zpsgbdsmytg.jpg

20170624_103326_zps3x9y1f8l.jpg

20170624_103304_zps6qm6myou.jpg

  • 11 months later...

So now I've converted all my photos over to Imgur, I can actually do some decent updates.

I've had my driveshafts overhauled, completely OEM, new grease and new boots, zero wear in the joints themselves!

W6j7wYZh.jpg

I bought myself a P11 SR20VE too, from a Pulsar Group of Australia member. It'll get a freshen up before it goes in.

pZ6Q0pYh.jpg

yyqr3zph.jpg

My N16 hubs, pressed apart.

TIvrdiVh.jpg

Redrilled to 4x100

1OkGHJGh.jpg

Gave the rear of the hubs a hit with some VHT Black high temp paint.

3myTJLnh.jpg

Front brakes done:
A32 Maxima Calipers, A32 Maxima 280mm rotors redrilled to 4x100, N16 Hubs redrilled to 4x100

6p0vFyWh.jpg

I went to bolt the rear brakes up and the caliper ended up needing spacing to align the caliper bracket to the center of the rotor:

SRanH1qh.jpg

06g57BLh.jpg

sJSzwaXh.jpg

Brakes on, time for a wheel test fit:

8fWAfbTh.jpg

wtCbfsgh.jpg

The red rocket is off the hoist! ... Well just for a few happy snaps anyway. I'm still waiting on some braided brake lines to finish off the brakes.

Please excuse the inch of dust on the body and the lack of shine to the paint and all the other body defects it has at the moment!

mxHzX9Rh.jpg

mxHzX9Rh.jpg

y2qSR3Bh.jpg

UwVSgHsh.jpg

OTPEsAbh.jpg

I bought a set of Kumho V720 tyres. I used to run the KU36's on my old N15, these are a revised version of those. I'm keen to see how they perform.

TeoUKQZh.jpg

So, wheel alignment time:

This was all done by me with the help of a very talented mate.

QxK5sSph.jpg

lIId9Mwh.jpg

I6V6YFHh.jpg

As you can see, castor isn't ideal, so time for some castor adjusting bushes.

 

This is a 32V VZR Gearbox I picked up to do my manual conversion

Pretty grubby hey...

dsLI2Eyh.jpg

HTr5sAqh.jpg

vEILS0Yh.jpg


Alot cleaner now :)

BfwToHih.jpg

UpxK5bnh.jpg

J1XOkryh.jpg

30vWkpnh.jpg

 

Auto is out!! Finally!!

jNCtDK7h.jpg

ZHLL3dxh.jpg

Freshly machined PAR 4.1kg flywheel fitted up and new Xtreme HD Organic Clutch

obWpt8ph.jpg

I did the hydro conversion while I was going.

Fitted a turbine oil impegnated sintered bronze bush to the GTiR clutch pedal, for a buttery smooth feel.

Jvd7fUWh.jpg

RGNpv6jh.jpg

  • Like 1

Bought some Protech 4-1's for the VE build, these are used from another member, stepped 4-1's to give some decent torque down low, although 4-1's to keep the VE screaming up top. That is a 3" V band...

UuNDyZ4h.jpg

ASFfelEh.jpg

Stripped the VE down ready for some love

VwKCE8Wh.jpg

weXJd3ch.jpg

MlyxggUh.jpg

Then I went back to the VE head, tried my hand at a bit of light porting, a mate of mine is giving me a hand, this porting is just the cleanup stage:

Intake Before:

OgGYTShh.jpg

After:

98kanYXh.jpg

VufIjDkh.jpg


Exhaust Before:

Z5Zth0bh.jpg

After:

QGrWVhrh.jpg

Bought myself a burette to make sure I wasn't getting too carried away on one port more than the other.

8PSq6CDh.jpg

gPW5HWWh.jpg

The porting work hasn't finished just yet. Still doing bits and pieces on it from time to time. Next up - Track Prep ;)

Edited by TimmyMA70
  • Like 1

Then the carpet was stripped out, to fit the brackets, rails and seat out.

G42BsOlh.jpg

Then...

Dry ice time, my wife gave me a hand removing all the sound deadening. She thought it was great fun.

iQvErHch.jpg

FWDl0MSh.jpg

O2v9nZjh.jpg

CBDUBH7h.jpg

In total 30kg's of sound deadening was removed, including the firewall mat.

A coat of paint now, to protect that exposed primer

gOIz7dsh.jpg

8VkPviBh.jpg

Also, reinstalled 3kg's worth of Dynaliner to try and help with heat coming through the floor

pMLLTrah.jpg

bIbmkBrh.jpg

Harness bar test fit while the seats are out

POE0S5gh.jpg

60PrVpAh.jpg

IcRXDG2h.jpg

Hey guys, another update.

I finished painting the primed areas in the boot area where the sound deadening was removed, also finished clipping the battery cable to the floor pan, keep everything as neat as possible.

kN4EERYh.jpg

yIGOJNlh.jpg

I finished cc'ing my intake ports yesterday:

#1 - 169.1cc

#2 - 169.1cc

#3 - 169.2cc

#4 169.2 cc

Now they're really close, I can finish the ports off :D

C4af10Gh.jpg

Alright this is the last post and this thread is completely updated :)

So after going over everything before this fast approaching track day, I noticed a little green drip from the water pump tell tale hole. So decided to err on the side of caution and throw a new pump at it before the track day. Checked all the coolant hoses, disconnected all the coolant lines from the intake manifold and looped them, also disconnected and looped the lines from the throttle body.

BIWk5Wvl.jpg

I had to release all 4 engine mounts to be able to have enough clearance between the chassis rail and the water pump, which meant removing the airbox. Since I made it I have always wanted to paint it satin black, so prepped it up and gave it a coat of paint.

vF9h1jEl.jpg

Then I finished my seat brackets to mount the pair of Sparco Pro 2000's which I am running.

j9udUnZl.jpg

pMrWeMDl.jpg

PIhb0Bal.jpg

That's all from me for now :)

Thanks for reading.

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...