Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I recently imported an R33 GTS-t M-Spec, and soon after sent it to a local garage which "specialized" in these vehicles. For potential legal reasons, the garage will not be named. I was to have recieved a rebuilt engine with full internals and installation of HKS T51R KAI turbo with custom manifold, injectors, and several other things. I supplied custom rods, oversized pistons, pins and gasket, including head studs, HKS Racing Wastegate and ARC clutch. I was also told that hicas lock bar would be installed along with Motec M800 computer, turboXS dual boost controller and C's short shifter. I was quoted three weeks for the work, but at the end of week eleven, i found that the garage had not yet assembled the engine, so I had the car towed to another garage. On inspecting the block, the other garage told me after going through with a bore gauge that the block had been bored too much and "off center" and would not fit my pistons. I choose the maximum overbore diameter for my pistons, and if this is true the block can no longer be used and i cant afford to make the oversize pistons custom for the bore.

Help me, what should I do????????!!! I have spoken to the owner of the garage and he denies that the bore is damaged, and if this keeps on going I'm f*ck3d because I dont have insurance for it yet!!!!!

-Conrad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47116-help-me-fix-my-skyline/
Share on other sites

This is why you should always do a lot of research b4 undergoing such a large scale modification. The fact the the shop told you 3 weeks is alot of bullshit. To complete such a list of modifications properly and accurately does take time, as they still need to work on other customers to keep the funds coming in.

I would like to know which shop is reponsible, please PM me the details.

Who have you taken the car too now?

This is why you should always do a lot of research b4 undergoing such a large scale modification.  The fact the the shop told you 3 weeks is alot of bullshit.

I would disagree on that point, Ben at Racepace has quited a very similar time-frame for my whole motor rebuild + about a dozen other things like rebuilding my diff and lots of niggly stuff.

Shinsei Gr1p Just buy another block dude. They aint that expensive and will get you running again at least.

Oh, and if your doing such a bit modification like this. Ben @ Racepace, or Gerald/Nigel @ ICE Performance are the go in Vic.

Hey , i feel yr pain man , I know which garage u talking about and i also know the dudes doing yr car. In fact , i was there when they were doin yr car. They were actually trying to force things into yr bay man .

My mate just got his evo pulled out of there , they ****ed his car up bad too man.

Hear this , they sand blasted his evo aluminium head. I mean how dumb is that , it was shocking. And they practically destroyed his car . Super F@cked job.Its just unbelivable.

U should get in touch with my mate , he will tell u wat to do.

I highly recommand NOBODY there.

There's no need for people to get so uptight about what people say even in our litigous society as it stands.

The first post contains nothing but facts. Feel free to post the name of the place but be sure that anything you post further is free from slanderous opinion.

You cannot be sued for publishing facts and names.

Everyone take a deep breath.

Yeah please PM me as well, i'm looking for someone who can build me an rb25 that rev up to 15000rpm ( Just kidding ) :( .

Well just find a best lawyer there is and start the paper work, oh ring up Consumer affair ( is this the word? ) and find out what can you do about this garage.

Don't forget to pm us . I though most work shop only take time/don't give a rat on smaller jobs, less money than such a big job like your car !!!!

There's no need for people to get so uptight about what people say even in our litigous society as it stands.

 

The first post contains nothing but facts.  Feel free to post the name of the place but be sure that anything you post further is free from slanderous opinion.  

 

You cannot be sued for publishing facts and names.

 

Everyone take a deep breath.

mate if it was your business would u like it slandered?

Even if the facts were right? And you got a baggin?

I think not. There is a time and place for things.

And publicly over an internet forum is not that place.

U gotta problem, get off your ass and talk face to face. Dont hide behind a keyboard

Hey,

the company that you took your car to has a legal obligation to get your car running back to the condition as when you took it in, if not contact consumer affairs and department of fair trading and i am sure he will fix the problem quick smart and if he does not suing him will be your only option, also PM with the garages details and i will chat to my sister who used to work for consumer affairs and see what she says........

Steve

X GTi-R X (PHAT32)

Whoever the workshop is, i strongly suggest you do the right thing and exhaust all the avenues with them first. Things like machining etc are usually sub contracted out, so whilst it falls under their responsibility to check and ensure that its correct, sometimes things go astray...

As for the communication thing and 11 weeks, well my experience is some of the best mecahanics in Sydney are the worst businessman, thats why if i ever needed things done to my car i went to BD4s as they are both good businessman (phone calls keeping informed, dont quote 2 days for soemthing they know will take longer just to secure your business) and good mechanics.

Always a shame to hear ppl having troubels spending their mney on cars, spending it should be the east part, earning th ecoin the hard painful part...not the other way around

mate if it was your business would u like it slandered?

Even if the facts were right? And you got a baggin?

I think not. There is a time and place for things.

And publicly over an internet forum is not that place.

U gotta problem, get off your ass and talk face to face. Dont hide behind a keyboard

Well if it was me I'd do exactly that.

If it's facts only then it's not slander so no I would not like to be slandered but if I'd done something wrong and it's published than that's not slander.

I have a small business of my own. I don't advertise and I turn away more work than I take because I do things right. People come to me because of my reputation. That's what businesses have to remember when they are doing dodgy work.

I can be quite tardy an I tell people this when I take their job but communication is what it's all about. As long as I let people know what's going on there are no problems.

If you take 11 weeks to not build an engine what are you doing? (That's not directed at you R31Nismoid)

This is why you should always do a lot of research b4 undergoing such a large scale modification.  The fact the the shop told you 3 weeks is alot of bullshit.  To complete such a list of modifications properly and accurately does take time, as they still need to work on other customers to keep the funds coming in.

I would like to know which shop is reponsible, please PM me the details.

Who have you taken the car too now?

I Agree with R31 Nismoid but 3 weeks for that kind of mods is impossible unlesss its mostly sub contracted ....

Take it up with the workshop in question please pm me who it is aswell then seek legal advise.

Don't run and take your car somewhere else either it might get written off if your not careful :cool:

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...