Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm

L0N3S0MER4NG3R
 Share

Recommended Posts

L0N3S0MER4NG3R Rookie

L0N3S0MER4NG3R

Posted
Posted (edited)

RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm

Hey guys my RB25det R34 has recently developed a problem where the car decides to stall once it is warm, this tends to be when i am at traffic lights stopped or crawling pace, has also happened when ive been in the lower rev range but i have found that so long as i keep the revs above 3k rpm it doesnt happen. i have checked coolant temp resistances and they all look about right when cold its 3250 ohms and warm 230 ohms.

The wires to the o2 sensor have been cut for as long as ive owned the car and worked fine for 2 months then started this problem

so key points,

-Dies once warm

-Coolant temp sensor looks good

-seems to be fine with higher revs

car specs: STOCK RB25DET NEO with fmic, turbosmart bov to atmosphere, link g4 ecu

 

Thanks in advance

Edited by L0N3S0MER4NG3R
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471179-rb25det-neo-stalls-once-its-warm/
Share on other sites
WHITEBEAST Collaborator

WHITEBEAST

Posted
Posted

If you are using the ECU that come with engine. It might be throwing a code, if you can plug it into a reader. You could also bypass the sensor with a specific range resistor to give you what ohms you want. Good luck.

L0N3S0MER4NG3R Rookie

L0N3S0MER4NG3R

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, WHITEBEAST said:

If you are using the ECU that come with engine. It might be throwing a code, if you can plug it into a reader. You could also bypass the sensor with a specific range resistor to give you what ohms you want. Good luck.

I am running a link g4 ecu, but don't have a cable so can't see what's happening with it at the moment. Don't need to bypass the coolant sensor as I believe it's working fine, I just logged what happend around then

L0N3S0MER4NG3R Rookie

L0N3S0MER4NG3R

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just now, Binarydata said:

Check the CAS. I was having the same issue. If you pull it off (after marking where it was) it should spin easily and freely. Swap it out for another one if you can.

Hi, have brought one this week but wanted to check everything simple first, is there anything I need to do or can o just mark where it is pull it off and throw a new one in the same way

WHITEBEAST Collaborator

WHITEBEAST

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had an issue with a V8 CAS, it sounds the same. The contacts stuff up in them. If you tip cold water on CAS at front of the engine. Does it start sooner?

Edited by WHITEBEAST
  • 2 months later...
L0N3S0MER4NG3R Rookie

L0N3S0MER4NG3R

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

so ended up borrowing my mates link g4 cable and turns out i have a link g4+, i logged a drive and when it died the map sensor went nuts, wiggled the wires and away it went again. just cut the wiring out and redo it? screenshots from moment it died (it was running normal in the first photo)

Log 2017-09-21 12;55;58 pm.llg

map sensor reading.png

Edited by L0N3S0MER4NG3R
more info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...