Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm

Hey guys my RB25det R34 has recently developed a problem where the car decides to stall once it is warm, this tends to be when i am at traffic lights stopped or crawling pace, has also happened when ive been in the lower rev range but i have found that so long as i keep the revs above 3k rpm it doesnt happen. i have checked coolant temp resistances and they all look about right when cold its 3250 ohms and warm 230 ohms.

The wires to the o2 sensor have been cut for as long as ive owned the car and worked fine for 2 months then started this problem

so key points,

-Dies once warm

-Coolant temp sensor looks good

-seems to be fine with higher revs

car specs: STOCK RB25DET NEO with fmic, turbosmart bov to atmosphere, link g4 ecu

 

Thanks in advance

Edited by L0N3S0MER4NG3R
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471179-rb25det-neo-stalls-once-its-warm/
Share on other sites

If you are using the ECU that come with engine. It might be throwing a code, if you can plug it into a reader. You could also bypass the sensor with a specific range resistor to give you what ohms you want. Good luck.

1 minute ago, WHITEBEAST said:

If you are using the ECU that come with engine. It might be throwing a code, if you can plug it into a reader. You could also bypass the sensor with a specific range resistor to give you what ohms you want. Good luck.

I am running a link g4 ecu, but don't have a cable so can't see what's happening with it at the moment. Don't need to bypass the coolant sensor as I believe it's working fine, I just logged what happend around then

Just now, Binarydata said:

Check the CAS. I was having the same issue. If you pull it off (after marking where it was) it should spin easily and freely. Swap it out for another one if you can.

Hi, have brought one this week but wanted to check everything simple first, is there anything I need to do or can o just mark where it is pull it off and throw a new one in the same way

I had an issue with a V8 CAS, it sounds the same. The contacts stuff up in them. If you tip cold water on CAS at front of the engine. Does it start sooner?

Edited by WHITEBEAST
  • 2 months later...

so ended up borrowing my mates link g4 cable and turns out i have a link g4+, i logged a drive and when it died the map sensor went nuts, wiggled the wires and away it went again. just cut the wiring out and redo it? screenshots from moment it died (it was running normal in the first photo)

Log 2017-09-21 12;55;58 pm.llg

map sensor reading.png

Edited by L0N3S0MER4NG3R
more info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...