Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26 ECU questions

I have an RB26 which was assembled with technology current at the time when Noah was a boy.

It runs the following (On petrol because I cannot get E85 within 100 miles of home)

Bang up to the minute Power FC ECU.

Sard 700cc injectors.

Z32 AFM's.

Blitz dual solenoid boost controllers (Which actually works pretty well)

Various cams (256 inlet, 252 exhaust), turbos (-5's), cam gears and other things.

 

The car runs 20lb and makes an amount of powahs that can only be described as insufficient. 

 

I have a thought that an ECU upgrade (not so much for the powah but to make the thing drive nicer, idle, etc etc and to be able to hook it into my data logger) may be in order and a Link G4 is on the list of likely options.

 

Are the injectors ok as I cant work out the impedence etc references and reconcile them with the ballast resistor blather RB20 types go on with.  Do I need to replace and/or fit anything to the injectors to work with the ECU?

Of the options available from Link are they worth the money?

Can anyone offer commentary on how they found the tuning experience/results with the ECU?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471248-rb26-ecu-questions/
Share on other sites

Link are not bad and there are plenty of other options on the market that are just as easy - Adaptronic and Haltec would be others to look into but really it comes down to who is tuning it and what they are comfortable with. Even having a top of the range Autronic / Motec unit will get poor results if your chosen tuner is not at home on them. Ditching the AFM's (put in gutted VL units if stock appearance is important) is something that could be worthwhile in the long run depending on your targets and future goals.

Replacing the injectors may end up being worth the cash as I have seen a decent set of ID's or similar make a very drivable car out of previous pig(s) so it can be worth the $$ to replace them.

All up it comes down to how much you want to spend and how much power you are aiming to make.

Edited by baron_von_bootsector
SAU automagically replaces "cops" with cops???
  • Like 1

Yuh, Sard 700cc are dinosaur grade tech and modern Bosch based (or similar) injectors will work much nicer.  Impedance choice is somewhat easy.  Just use high impedance injectors and remove any resistor box that may be between the ECU and the injector loom.

The PowerFC really is capable of running your engine well enough if it is tuned properly.  Both in terms of outright power and road manners.  Sure, newer ECUs with more blah-de-blah inside will do an even better job, but you are fairly well into the area of diminishing returns with respect to how big those improvements are.  I wouldn't replace the ECU unless a decent tuner tells you that it simply isn't capable of giving you some function that you're after, or simply can't give you the quality result you're after.  That last point should refer you back to my previous sentence about diminishing returns.  It is unlikely that a tuner who knows how to set it up properly would tell you that unless they wanted to sell you another ECU!

Yeah I don't really want to get into the tuna thing.  Perth is a hopeless case when it comes to such discussions and the nonsense that gets talked about them does my head in (EG He is brilliant but doesn't answer his phone, only works for friends of friends, etc etc etc).

Anyway the problem with the current setup broadly comes down to niceness, logging and the following on every full noise gear change.

 

0H5A7166 2 flamage.jpg

This sort of thing for injectors?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/fit-Nissan-Skyline-rb26dett-r33-r34-r32-Bosch-750cc-fuel-injectors-GTR-turbo-/201948838193?hash=item2f0516b931:g:D2IAAOSwB09YMPwG

Or is there somewhere else recommended?

Or do you/can you use an RB20 harness (My existing one is obviously pretty old and may not enjoy being messed with)

Edited by djr81
Yeah I don't really want to get into the tuna thing.  Perth is a hopeless case when it comes to such discussions and the nonsense that gets talked about them does my head in (EG He is brilliant but doesn't answer his phone, only works for friends of friends, etc etc etc).
Anyway the problem with the current setup broadly comes down to niceness, logging and the following on every full noise gear change.
 
59684f232fe3c_0H5A71662flamage.jpg.ec416bd256b815ba998e61bc736a7c61.jpg

I see no issues with this picture. Sorry I can't be of any more assistance.
3 hours ago, djr81 said:

This sort of thing for injectors?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/fit-Nissan-Skyline-rb26dett-r33-r34-r32-Bosch-750cc-fuel-injectors-GTR-turbo-/201948838193?hash=item2f0516b931:g:D2IAAOSwB09YMPwG

Or is there somewhere else recommended?

Or do you/can you use an RB20 harness (My existing one is obviously pretty old and may not enjoy being messed with)

Yup, something like that.  But lookup Scotty from on here (Scotty's customs) to support a local.

Let's put it this way.  The RB20 and the RB26 do not use the same injector harness.  The RB20 ran high impedance injectors.  The RB26 ran low.  So the 26 had the resistor pack.  But the presence of the resistor pack tells you that the 26 ECU expects to see high impedance injectors.....the same as all the other Nissan ECUs of the time.  The difference between the 26 and 20 ECUs was actually bugger all.  More or less the same thing, just with the extra bits for 2x AFMs and such.

So PowerFCs are also the same.  They expect high impedance injectors.  Put high impedance injectors into the 26's fuel rail and you have to bypass the resistor box.  You can buy patch harnesses that replace the resistor easily enough.

There is no substitute for a decent tuner. People have made huge power with PFC, successfully dragged and circuit raced with them.  Sure if you were buying an ECU today there would be many better but a good tuner can get good results with a PFC - 500hp should be a piece of cake. Of course that assumes that everything is installed correctly. And you can get datalogit for PFC.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...