Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know this question has probably been asked before, but im not too sure on how up to date the information might be, so i thought i would ask you guys as i have been dicked around so much i just want my car back :D

My 25 blew thanks to some dodgy actuator welding provided by a workshop which will remain nameless... Ive been told alot of things, but im relatively new to this whole car scene so i dont know what to believe...

What is the best option to go for in this situation? rebuild? drop in another 25? 26? conversion? and most importantly, who can i go and see that knows what they are talking about and can do quality workmanship at a reasonable price?? I just want my baby back on the road its been almost 2 months now :(

If anyone can give me some advice, and some sort of idea on what each option is going to cost, id appreciate it..

Thanks alot guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/
Share on other sites

Go and see Ken at Hyperdrive - www.hyperdrivems.com.au. He is also forum member and alot of people go to him from the forums.

UNIT 1, 28 VALE STREET

MALAGA 6090

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

TEL: (08) 9209 3100

[email protected]

Or see Steve at SST

Unit 9/ 138 Radium St, Welshpool 6106 Ph(08) 9350 5444

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-953400
Share on other sites

sldfhlsajkhfljsdahlhsdalfhsadhfdsa

thx alot for ur input guys, geez we are talkin alot of money...

is there anything else i can do that might be cheaper? im not looking for mass hp or anything i just want my car back on the road. its not going to be a big racing machine.....

yeah im pretty sure the rings are gone....but the engine did seize mid cruise due to no oil. the actuator weld came off so no wastegate = big pressure buildup = turbo seal destruction = where did my oil go? oh its everywhere, look at the pretty fire.......

we did get the engine going again after about 20-30 min, but the infamous knock knock tap tap was audible from inside the car

cheers boosted 26 for ur support....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-953700
Share on other sites

yeah im pretty sure the rings are gone....but the engine did seize mid cruise due to no oil. the actuator weld came off so no wastegate = big pressure buildup = turbo seal destruction = where did my oil go? oh its everywhere' date=' look at the pretty fire.......QUOTE']

That statement isn't quite logical, with no wastegate actuator you wouldnt get any boost at all, or close to none.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-954757
Share on other sites

yup can sympathise with you bud - my 25 blew thru noones fault tho ...... wasnt prepared for such an outlay of money .... really didnt expect it ..... got a personal loan then just went the forgies now hopefully i never have to worry about it again. *touches wood*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47145-the-final-word/#findComment-956732
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...