Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

 

So car started fine yesterday, didn't drive it today. Started it up to go throw some fuel in and was welcomed with this banging noise like someone had thrown a brick into a dryer.

Any suggestions from the video attachment??

 

Engine Noise.mp4

Edited by BstewyR33
attachement didnt attach
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471538-bad-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

sorry mate but you've spun a bearing, probably big end.  If you give it a little rev does it get worse (best way to confirm if it is big end vs main, but either way the bottom end needs fixing)

what does the oil pressure gauge and/or light say when it's running? Do you still have any oil pressure? What were you doing last time it didn't make the noise?

also, if you intend to rebuild it rather than replace it, every single revolution does more damage and increases cost to rebuild...

if you are feeling optimistic you could take all the drive belts off (water pump/fan/alternator, power steer, aircon) and start it briefly and see if the noise is still there, but the video is pretty distinctive.... :( 

Awww shite... Thanks man. Can't complain for a 22 yr old engine which hasn't had any work done to it and lasted. 

The noise did increase with revs, Oil pressure has remained the same - didn't see any drops in the gauge while driving, never had any lights come on to indicate otherwise. Have noticed a slight belt squeal lately on start up, not sure which belt though 

Is it a costly rebuild?

Edited by BstewyR33
Added text
  • 3 weeks later...

You could ask if anyone here has a book with torque specs and how to rebuild a rb25det.. 

That way you can drop a new bottom end in your car and keep your old engine and slowly rebuild it yourself. 

Could be fun if you into that stuff.

a bit of an update - had a mobile mechanic out to have a listen and look & he suggested it could be some dirty lifters as the noise wasn't down low on the block. Threw some nulon lifter free & tune up in and the sound went away, a band-aid solution - will have to get around to do a overhaul on the engine at some point.

Not really dodgey at all and a good cheap outcome. Seems like it was just a sticky/noisy lifter. If the problem re occurs, (probably won't if you keep the oil in good conditon) just replace the lifters or isolate the offending lifter and replace that only. I recently spoke to a bloke that had this occur and he ran some engine flush through the engine and changed the oil and 3 years later noise never returned. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Block bump. $400. As above cyl 6 needs bore or sleeve.
    • I would think making the argument that the travel is limited by a spring flexing against a spring perch as "the same method". Later on in the document they do state that the spring can't bind on full bump travel and cannot come loose in full rebound travel as well. (which is all very sensible). The laws are actually pretty sensible and reasonable. It's just that the people who enforce and check them don't actually read them or know them accurately. "Oh, coilovers? Instant fail mate. Don't even need to look at it." - Guy who will be instantly reported by me. There is probably merit to people who do get defected for height also get defected for the suspension in that state that allows it. I did never consider the people who are complaining about coilovers being picked on are also running around at 50mm off the floor.
    • I think given SAU's knowledge of E85 we can strongly conclude that 10% ethanol in almost any situation is entirely fine. Almost all of the myths against E85 were overblown, let alone E10.
    • From your link See bold text, is this referring to damper settings, if so that may a issue for "some" inspectors, I cannot see aftermarket coilovers having the evidence that "must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original" Maybe just remove the adjustment knows and hope for the best???? Meh 5.2 Suspension travel In all instances, modifications to a vehicle’s suspension must ensure the integrity of the system and not compromise the ride quality. At least two thirds of the original suspension travel should be maintained in both directions (rebound (i.e. extension) and bump (i.e. compression)), and rebound must be limited by the same method used by the vehicle manufacturer or if this is not practicable due to the nature of the modification, an equivalent method. If an alternative method is used, evidence must be available that its functional performance is equivalent to the original.
    • They actually don't - They adhere to VSB14 rules just like Victoria. The rules are against CABIN adjustable height, and it quite clearly states that the height has to be within parameters. I asked the VASS engineer to confirm this when I got my car engineered and they refused to engineer the coilovers because they didn't meet the requirements for requiring engineering. (mine are height adjustable.) People "Not wanting to bother" with "Actually reading/knowing/adhering to the rules" should result in fines and immediately losing the ability to issue blue slips and/or RWC's in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...