Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 gtt tiptronic transmision upgrade parts/kits tricks

Hi can any 1 help ?point me in right direction?

i have a r34 gtt tiptronic that is in need of a stronger transmission to handle more boost does any1 know of any kits or upgrade parts to make it stronger must stay a auto as I'm a paraplegic (wheelchair user) and can only drive on a automatic license the transmission is totally stock and has started to slip any information or help be massively appreciated thanks Ryan??

  • 1 month later...
R34 gtt tiptronic transmision upgrade parts/kits tricks Hi can any 1 help ?point me in right direction?
i have a r34 gtt tiptronic that is in need of a stronger transmission to handle more boost does any1 know of any kits or upgrade parts to make it stronger must stay a auto as I'm a paraplegic (wheelchair user) and can only drive on a automatic license the transmission is totally stock and has started to slip any information or help be massively appreciated thanks Ryan[emoji1303]

IMG_1553.jpg
  • Like 2

If the above is your car, then my auto is taking a BW EFR quite nicely.

It also looks like those are UK (?) plates, which would make shipping astronomical, I'd wager!
If there's no local knowledge on the gearbox (and there really isn't here either tbh, I got really lucky) it would almost be worth calling around your local performance/drag racing shop and seeing what they can do or whether they are receptive to it.

There's TCU's around for sale that drive auto gearboxes that can (and do!) wire into the factory wheel paddles.
EG: https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Products/Transmission_Products/TCM-2000_Transmission_Controller/
(or the new 2800, I have the 2000, well I'm trying to sell the 2000).

That option however is expensive, because it's what I did and I lucked out on someone who knew the gearboxes. Literally exhausted options and asked someone at work whos partner "is a mechanic and may know someone" just turned out to be an expert in that specific type of thing.

It cost me about $10,000AUD once all was said and done, when you factor in the cost of torque converters, coolers, lines, hoses, sensors, labor of gearbox coming in out in out in out, flex plates (stock one does NOT handle the power), the TCU, the TCU tuning, and all the magic custom work that went into the actual gearbox, and I'm trying to sell it for $3500 so it goes to show that the money doesn't come back to you if you can find someone who will do the overhaul.

I would almost say this is a scenario where selling car and buying something like an Evo X or a Golf R or something that comes with a DCT nowadays is going to be a better car for your needs.

  • Like 1
If the above is your car, then my auto is taking a BW EFR quite nicely.
It also looks like those are UK (?) plates, which would make shipping astronomical, I'd wager!
If there's no local knowledge on the gearbox (and there really isn't here either tbh, I got really lucky) it would almost be worth calling around your local performance/drag racing shop and seeing what they can do or whether they are receptive to it.
There's TCU's around for sale that drive auto gearboxes that can (and do!) wire into the factory wheel paddles.
EG: https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Products/Transmission_Products/TCM-2000_Transmission_Controller/
(or the new 2800, I have the 2000, well I'm trying to sell the 2000).

That option however is expensive, because it's what I did and I lucked out on someone who knew the gearboxes. Literally exhausted options and asked someone at work whos partner "is a mechanic and may know someone" just turned out to be an expert in that specific type of thing.

It cost me about $10,000AUD once all was said and done, when you factor in the cost of torque converters, coolers, lines, hoses, sensors, labor of gearbox coming in out in out in out, flex plates (stock one does NOT handle the power), the TCU, the TCU tuning, and all the magic custom work that went into the actual gearbox, and I'm trying to sell it for $3500 so it goes to show that the money doesn't come back to you if you can find someone who will do the overhaul.
I would almost say this is a scenario where selling car and buying something like an Evo X or a Golf R or something that comes with a DCT nowadays is going to be a better car for your needs.

Dude any chance you find out a shipping quote to mainland England uk for transmission the uk is crap for automatics I've tried a few big garages with no joy as of yet I don't need to sell my r34 I have a r35 gtr as my daily running phase 5 ecutek 650bhp so I don't need to use skyline much but the r34 was the dream so it has to be done some how very interested in your box now what does it come with ?
Thanks for help appreciated [emoji1303]
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...