Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 gtt tiptronic transmision upgrade parts/kits tricks

Hi can any 1 help ?point me in right direction?

i have a r34 gtt tiptronic that is in need of a stronger transmission to handle more boost does any1 know of any kits or upgrade parts to make it stronger must stay a auto as I'm a paraplegic (wheelchair user) and can only drive on a automatic license the transmission is totally stock and has started to slip any information or help be massively appreciated thanks Ryan??

  • 1 month later...
R34 gtt tiptronic transmision upgrade parts/kits tricks Hi can any 1 help ?point me in right direction?
i have a r34 gtt tiptronic that is in need of a stronger transmission to handle more boost does any1 know of any kits or upgrade parts to make it stronger must stay a auto as I'm a paraplegic (wheelchair user) and can only drive on a automatic license the transmission is totally stock and has started to slip any information or help be massively appreciated thanks Ryan[emoji1303]

IMG_1553.jpg
  • Like 2

If the above is your car, then my auto is taking a BW EFR quite nicely.

It also looks like those are UK (?) plates, which would make shipping astronomical, I'd wager!
If there's no local knowledge on the gearbox (and there really isn't here either tbh, I got really lucky) it would almost be worth calling around your local performance/drag racing shop and seeing what they can do or whether they are receptive to it.

There's TCU's around for sale that drive auto gearboxes that can (and do!) wire into the factory wheel paddles.
EG: https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Products/Transmission_Products/TCM-2000_Transmission_Controller/
(or the new 2800, I have the 2000, well I'm trying to sell the 2000).

That option however is expensive, because it's what I did and I lucked out on someone who knew the gearboxes. Literally exhausted options and asked someone at work whos partner "is a mechanic and may know someone" just turned out to be an expert in that specific type of thing.

It cost me about $10,000AUD once all was said and done, when you factor in the cost of torque converters, coolers, lines, hoses, sensors, labor of gearbox coming in out in out in out, flex plates (stock one does NOT handle the power), the TCU, the TCU tuning, and all the magic custom work that went into the actual gearbox, and I'm trying to sell it for $3500 so it goes to show that the money doesn't come back to you if you can find someone who will do the overhaul.

I would almost say this is a scenario where selling car and buying something like an Evo X or a Golf R or something that comes with a DCT nowadays is going to be a better car for your needs.

  • Like 1
If the above is your car, then my auto is taking a BW EFR quite nicely.
It also looks like those are UK (?) plates, which would make shipping astronomical, I'd wager!
If there's no local knowledge on the gearbox (and there really isn't here either tbh, I got really lucky) it would almost be worth calling around your local performance/drag racing shop and seeing what they can do or whether they are receptive to it.
There's TCU's around for sale that drive auto gearboxes that can (and do!) wire into the factory wheel paddles.
EG: https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/Performance_Aftermarket/Products/Transmission_Products/TCM-2000_Transmission_Controller/
(or the new 2800, I have the 2000, well I'm trying to sell the 2000).

That option however is expensive, because it's what I did and I lucked out on someone who knew the gearboxes. Literally exhausted options and asked someone at work whos partner "is a mechanic and may know someone" just turned out to be an expert in that specific type of thing.

It cost me about $10,000AUD once all was said and done, when you factor in the cost of torque converters, coolers, lines, hoses, sensors, labor of gearbox coming in out in out in out, flex plates (stock one does NOT handle the power), the TCU, the TCU tuning, and all the magic custom work that went into the actual gearbox, and I'm trying to sell it for $3500 so it goes to show that the money doesn't come back to you if you can find someone who will do the overhaul.
I would almost say this is a scenario where selling car and buying something like an Evo X or a Golf R or something that comes with a DCT nowadays is going to be a better car for your needs.

Dude any chance you find out a shipping quote to mainland England uk for transmission the uk is crap for automatics I've tried a few big garages with no joy as of yet I don't need to sell my r34 I have a r35 gtr as my daily running phase 5 ecutek 650bhp so I don't need to use skyline much but the r34 was the dream so it has to be done some how very interested in your box now what does it come with ?
Thanks for help appreciated [emoji1303]
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...