Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New to SAU and New to turbo

Hey everyone,

I have owned my R32 for 5 months and only truly had it running well for a few weeks. Its a RB20 with RB25 turbo. 

Also this is my first turbo engine I've ever owned and worked on. So far I've learned a lot. First week the turbo started to whistle. After removing the turbo I found the fins broke.

Next week the ignition control module gave out and I went and did the z32 conversion also took the opportunity to change the ignition coils, plugs and pigtails

This time the turbo went out again. I heard it something broke and lost all boost. The shaft itself broke clean. I have read that these ceramic breaks and its common. But I am wondering if the shaft breaking is common as well. Right before it broke, there was no heavy boosting. I was pushing about 5psi every shift just letting it whistle...

Next turbo going in is the HKS GARRETT GT2530. I would like to make sure that the shaft breaking is a common problem or was it because of lack of oil. When I removed the oil bolt on the turbo the fluid looked consistent. Nothing alarming to where it looked dry.

Any tips appreciated! I also attached a photo of the broken shaft.

 

turbo.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471641-new-to-sau-and-new-to-turbo/
Share on other sites

I've blown a stock 21U in that exact fashion and found the oil feed to the turbo blocked, so that's a good thing to check. If you don't already have one, put a new braided line there to ensure it's clean and crank the car to make sure there's oil flowing.

While you're only running 5psi you have no idea how hard it might have been pushed in it's past life and it could have been waiting to happen, they are sadly not well known for their strength.. :(

2 hours ago, GeeDog said:

I've also broken the shaft in a track car, and we are pretty sure it was from oil starvation. It might be worth talking to Tao at Hypergear in Melbourne about a rebuild & highflow of your turbo, as an option to a HKS.

+1

A rebuild and high flow also comes with a braided oil feed as standard ;) 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...