Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HELP PLZ! R32 GTR Idle gets lumpy when car is hot.

Hey guys my apologies for starting an other idle thread.But I have been searching for a few days and can't get an exact answer.

the car is a 91 GTR with very light mods. N1 apexi exhaust up to the stock front pipe. Hashimoto radiator 

Yellow Jacket coil packs

hks oil filter relocation kit

and HKS pod intakes

Recently replaced my AFMs with APH AFMs

The Problem- the car has been running fine for the last two months but recently I was losing power and throttle along with the idle starting to sputter at random times. I was certain it was the dated AFMs. So replaced them with a aftermarket brand from cananda. The problem seemed to go away (so I thought).After driving the car around for about 30 minutes and allowing things to get warm the car just flips a switch and the idle will run shitty and it sounds like a go kart accelerating.  Wondering if it could be faulty  coilpacks or spark plugs. On a good note the car doesn't lose or cut out in acceleration anymore. When I cold start he vehicle it runs fine until things get hot after a while of driving for the day. Then I'll restart the car and have the same lumpy idle issue. Any idea what can be going on fellas?

 

 

 

Where you located white32? I've got a spare igniter and coil packs you could borrow to work out your problem. That way it won't cost you anything and once you know what it is you'll know what part to buy.

Good luck

 

  • Like 1
23 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Coil packs or ignitor.  Yellow jackets are random crap.  Some good, some bad.  So you take your chances with those.  The ignitor is famous for getting cranky when it gets old and hot.

That's great advice I actually have a spare igniter that was included with the car. Will try that!

16 hours ago, microg said:

Same problem as you ,it was my igniter

Gonna give it a shot thank you! 

 

14 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Where you located white32? I've got a spare igniter and coil packs you could borrow to work out your problem. That way it won't cost you anything and once you know what it is you'll know what part to buy.

Good luck

 

Actually I'm located in Las Vegas and I have a spare igniter and could as well. Thank you so much tho that's damn awesome of you. ??

 

 

 

Small mall update tho guys. I realized that when I turn on the AC is when the car wants to start to act up. It will still do it as well when the ac is off after driving for a while. But what I noticed really makes it act up is turning on the AC.. Maybe the igniter isn't liking when I turn it on? 

Thoughts?

On a somewhat related note.  

Nissan makes an conversion kit for earlier VG30 using the later style igniter that is much cheaper, but the wiring is different from RB.  

https://frsport.com/Nissan-22020-97E25-Genuine-OEM-Z32-300Zx-VG30DE-TT--Power-Transistor-Unit_p_32087.html

I saw some old posts showing pictures on how to re-wire, but the pictures are now gone.  Would you folks have more information about the wiring?

The wiring's not hard.  Wires come in from the ECU on one side, go out to the coils on the other.  The pins are even numbered.

In reality, these days you'd be mental to even contemplate spending real money on an igniter.  Just piss it off, and the old coils, and go buy some new coils with built in igniters.  The various Toyota ones from little shitboxen are excellent, cheap, and you spend the same amount of effort on wiring.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

The wiring's not hard.  Wires come in from the ECU on one side, go out to the coils on the other.  The pins are even numbered.

If I recall the problem is with the way pins are numbered.  There are 7 pins, and the ground pin in RB I believe is the middle #4, but VG is on the end either #1 or #7.  Those lost pictures had shown which end is #1 and which end is #7.

Surely the wiring diagrams for all of these things are plastered across 11ty forums and not all evaporated in the Photobucket f**kup.  Just google your heart out and find them.  Otherwise, it's just a box with 6 transistors in it.  You can test it with a 6v battery and a multimeter to prove which input goes to which output in about 5 minutes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...