R32 GTR Shuts off driving

[Brexfast89]

R32 GTR Shuts off driving

I'm having an issue with my '89 R32 GTR. Twice now it has shut off completely while driving and after about 25 or 30 minutes it will finally start up again. This has happened after taking a hard pull and then coasting with the clutch pushed in. After pushing in the clutch the rpms blip a thousand or so and then go down to normal and then a mile or so down the road the car just shuts off. I can continually try to start the car and it will try to turn over but won't start until about 25 or 30 minutes later it will just start up. After it happens the car drives normal and reaches full boost and full power no problem. It was about a week or so between the 2 issues. Originally I thought it was an issue with the alternator which was found to be bad, so that was replaced with an upgraded Nissan Quest unit. Even with the boost turned all the way down on the ebc, it will fluctuate between 19psi and about 21psi. Is that normal to not have a dead on reading all the time? It was at 20.8 psi when it shut off the last time.

It is frustrating because I was doing hard pulls earlier and had no issues. I had done hard pulls in the week or so between the 2 instances and didn't have a problem. If anyone have any suggestions I'd appreciate it.

Car has:

HKS GTIII SS turbos

Tomei Expreme Outlet Pipe

HKS Front Pipe

R33 Catalytic Converter

HKS Silent Hi-Power Exhaust

Apexi Power Intake Kit

Nismo Fuel Pump with rewire

Injector Dynamics 725cc Injectors

R34 Coilpacks and conversion on Wiring Specialties harness to remove Ignition Module

Link ECU using built in map sensor with mafs disabled, o2 sensor removed and tuned for wideband

HKS Vcam

HKS 264 Exhaust Camshaft

Greddy Profec B EBC

 

[GH05T]

checked your AFM plug connectors?

getting  stutters randomly when turning or when you go over bumps?

 

Edited September 17, 2017 by GH05T

[Brexfast89]

I am running a map sensor so no afms being used. No random stutters when starting or going over bumps.  Sometimes it takes a few seconds on key turn to start it up but it idles perfect. I just figured it was part of owning an aftermarket ecu.

[Binarydata]

Could be the CAS. Have a look at that. Good luck with the fix.

[GT-R David]

Could be the CAS. Have a look at that. Good luck with the fix.

Exactly. 95% CAS related problem.

[Brexfast89]

Awesome thanks. I will try and test the CAS.

Any suggestions on the boost issue? Is it possible the turbos are flowing too well with less restrictions in the exhaust, causing an increase in the boost? The shop I have work on it say that it's dead on 19 psi on the dyno and that it isn't a boost leak but on the street it goes over 19 psi.

[KiwiRS4T]

Sell off the Profec and  control boost with the Link through a Mac valve.

[Brexfast89]

I had an AEM boost solenoid being controlled by the link but with the boost issues it was hitting boost cut and I thought it was easier to be able to make adjustments on my own with the profec instead of a laptop with software I didn't understand. As soon as the boost issues are resolved I plan on going back to the link controlling the boost though. Also I wasn't sure if the link was originally having issues controlling the Vcam and the boost at the same time with it spooling so quickly.

[KiwiRS4T]

This my RB30 controlled by Link and Mac valve:

 

[Brexfast89]

Thank you for the graph. That looks pretty smooth on your boost. I think I have gotten my boost issue figured out. The first shop I had work on it forgot to remove the brass pill from the line so now that it's gone it only fluctuates between 1.21 bar and 1.32 bar. Now just waiting to see if the cas issue is fixed.

[nismo-r33]

What was your issue? I'm running the G4X with PRP trigger kit and car random shuts off and sometimes crank crank crank and no start. After waiting a few it will start back up. Also, r33 GT-R.