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I’m going to be building my neo up soon with a top mounted gtx3076 gen2, 6 boost etc. Don’t intend to push for lots of power, just a nice road setup. On 98 Ron 

I have what I believe to be a r35 gtr afm already, came with the power F.C., although I currently am tuned on the stock afm

if I want to use this gtr afm, I have read I need it in a 4” tube, is that accurate ? Or how have others mounted them. Also, is there much to tuning the power F.C. using the r35 afm or is it easy enough, will it limit my tune much or will it be a good job. Some tuners I have spoke to are trying to get me to go for a link ecu, but for now I have the pfc. 

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I've tuned several R35 AFMs in both 3" and 4" inch tubes and also tuned the HPX R35 styled AFM...

The tube size just changes the resolution of the AFM, generally if you run before the intake I would go bigger and also introduce a bend to reduce turbulence. It's more preferable to install these AFMs post turbo, post FMIC to reduce any reversion issues as well as turbulence.

In terms of scaling the PowerFC to work with the R35 I have no idea (as I stopped playing with powerFC about 10 years ago - as they're outdated and have zero features).

Preferable to go with Nistune, that has all the data for the R35 AFM (literally there's a menu where you select your AFM vs. the pipe size), not to mention supports basic engine protection, full flex support and launch control (bang bang lol).

If I was your tuner and you brought me a R35 AFM to install on your car I would say get a Nistune OR sell everything and get a Link or Halaltech or Adaptronic

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yeah, entirely up to you

I prefer Nistune for it's basic engine protection. You can setup a TP Load cut and you can set soft/hard cut RPM limiters so you won't destroy your oil pump.

Just my recommendation, I know PowerFC has it's "cool" factor as you have a hand controller - but the novelty wears off there for me

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Nothing to do with cool as such. I’ve had 3 power F.C. equipped cars before, one nistune, one emanage ultimate and 2 link g4 setups over the years... and I’ve yet to notice a huge pile, yes a link might have pulled a bit more power out of say the emanage setup, but all provided a safe tune

so seeing as I have the power F.C. in this car I’ll stick with it. For now  

So... now that’s out of the way.. lol. 

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So another question

car is currently mapped on a hks2530 to 1.35 bar on stock afm  

When the new setup is installed, gtx3076 and top mount 6boost,  will I be able to limp to a tuner if I leave the stock afm in place. I mean limp, basic drivin. 3k rpm max. 

Or will the map be so far out it will drive awful and risk motor damage

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  • 1 month later...

I’m not sure but I’m thinking a 3.75 or 4” pipe to suit my needs, with the extra air of the 3076, but I don’t want to go to big and loose to much low down resolution

 

could anyone advise on that?

and also, I have a tail on the plug from the r35 afm, is it only a matter of chopping my own cars afm loom plug and joining the wires?

cheers

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It's a hot wire air flow meter.  It works by running a current through a wire (or a transistor) and monitoring the temperature of that wire (or transistor).  Then the current is controlled up and down to maintain the temperature of the sensing element.  Heat is lost to the air flowing past the element based on the mass flow rate of air.  More air flow = more heat loss -- more current required to maintain the temperature.

In a turbo inlet position, the air is at atmospheric pressure, so is moving faster for any given mass flow rate.  In an IC pipe, the air (at high flow rates) is at whatever the boost pressure is.  Higher pressure = lower velocity for any given pipe size.  Could be double or triple the density of atmospheric air.  Regardless of what the pressure is though, the local air mass flow rate past the sensing element is what the AFM is reading.  More air = more blah blah blah, as above.

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