Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

So, getting back to this. A couple of days after i thought i solved my problems, the noise came back worse than ever.

 

I continued searching to no avail. A mechanical diff and drive shafts came up for sale cheap, i thought it was a good opportunity to upgrade and rule out the diff and shafts. Purchased and fitted, noise remained. Fuark, oh well at least ive now got a proper diff and better ratio for track duties (4.36).

 

I went as far as getting someone to drive the car while i was in the back and in the boot, all i got out of that was that it was below the floor and from rear right. Fed up with it all, i kept driving with the noise driving me nuts for a month or two.

 

Eventually, I decided the best course of action was to buy some chassis ears. I bought some ebay specials for $70. Best money ive ever spent (almost).

 

The noise was found to be coming from the forward rear right subframe bush. The chassis ear kit has 6 alligator clamps with mics in them i placed them at different locations on the rear right, 4 bushes, lower ball joint and tail shaft centre bearing. The offending bush was on the first channel i listened to. I couldn't believe it, was that simple to pin point using this cheap tool. On the other channels i couldn't hear knocking but could hear the normal sounds of bearings spinning, exhaust hum and even the brake pads brushing the rotors.

 

Now that i knew where the noise was coming from, i quickly jacked the car up, unbolted the bolts holding that bush and bracket up, 1 of the bolts holding the bracket didn't seem overly tight, from the bottom, the bush appeared to still be in 1 piece. I simply rotated the lock collars a little bit and refitted and torqued everything up.

 

Went for a drive and whoalla, no more stupid knocking noise. I wish i bought this tool at the beginning, would of saved around 10 hours of stuffing about and getting nowhere.

 

Here's a pic of the ebay spec chassis ears. They look uncannily similar to the sidchrome ones i was going to buy which are significantly dearer.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Stupid forum media disabled crap. Here's the pic of the chassis ears.

IMG20180306185456.thumb.jpg.d82c4c8346155a73a3629225f538c570.jpg

 

 

 

Thanks to these, the problem is now solved and im going to put these to use to figure out where a suspension noise is coming from in our Stagea and the mrs Focus which started making a weird suspension squeak last week.

39 minutes ago, hardsteppa said:

Those things look siiick. Do you have a link to the seller's ad pls? Ones i found on ebay were 300ish plus.

Yeah this is the link

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Auto-Car-Electronic-Stethoscope-Kit-Mechanic-Noise-Detection-Diagnosis-Tool/232374307192?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

They work good, there is a little bit of static heard when you turn it on but nothing that stops you from hearing what you need. When the car is running, you don't even notice the static.

I also came across these, this is cheap as compared to other sellers of the same thing, looks pretty similar quality to be honest, headphone cord looks a bit better, the rest looks the same. The kincrome and sp tools version look exactly the same other than colours, they even have the same part numbers.

https://goodqualityproducts.com.au/product/sidchrome-car-engine-noise-detection-diagnos-electronic-stethoscope-

 

 if i was a mechanic and would get lots of use out of them, i would have gone for these wireless ones https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wireless-ChassisEAR/222300065562?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 but with the limited use i need them for, the cheap ebay spec is perfect and adequate enough.

 

Found the issue in less than 2 minutes and took around 10 minutes to set up including jacking the car up and running the cables through the drivers window. I ended up just using compact ear phones to hear so i wouldn't look weird while driving around the back streets near home.

kit/

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...