Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 3/25/2018 at 10:44 PM, rat32r said:

Just want to and you can get ls1 alternator from 140A -220A is the most I have seen. Ls2,ls3 all fit my kit but will require a different plug for charge light.

Do you know of any conversion looms to use LS2/3 alternators with the RB factory connector?

Do you know of any conversion looms to use LS2/3 alternators with the RB factory connector?

Ls2 and ls3 alternators are pwm controlled.
So unless you have a aftermarket ecu that you can program to control alternator output the stick with ls1 as it is plug and play
  • Like 1
On 2/20/2019 at 6:02 PM, rat32r said:


Ls2 and ls3 alternators are pwm controlled.
So unless you have a aftermarket ecu that you can program to control alternator output the stick with ls1 as it is plug and play

How does the voltage hold with the larger alternators? Is there a negative difference with the alternator size upgrade, that would require the "big 3" wiring setup? I doubt 140A would have an issue, but 200A+ may strain the stock wiring.

  • 4 weeks later...

Does anyone have a specification sheet for these alternators?  Primarily what is the maximum rpm it can run to(eg 9000 engine RPM)? What current does it make at what rpm?(eg 50 amps at idle? 100 amps at 2000 engine rpm?)

Thanks Matt

So im having an argument with a mate. I have just recently purchased a 140amp alternator kit from cwc. And he reckons ill need my car touch up tuned as it runs more voltage what are your guys thoughts on this should i tell my friend he needs to pay off the tea spoon or is he right?? 

Does anyone have a specification sheet for these alternators?  Primarily what is the maximum rpm it can run to(eg 9000 engine RPM)? What current does it make at what rpm?(eg 50 amps at idle? 100 amps at 2000 engine rpm?)
Thanks Matt

Hi Matt,
I have made the pulley ratio for my kits to be about to handle 10-11k rpm
As that would equate to 6-7k rpm on the ls1 motor.ls motor runs a larger diameter harmonic balancer and a smaller alternator pulley.
With the RB the balancer is smaller and the pulley is larger.
Also I have had cars running at idle with 3 Walbro 460s all on at idle with aircon on max,headlights lights on and maintains 14.2volts.
Below is a data sheet from a generic ls1 alternator a customer sent me.IMG_5940.jpg
So im having an argument with a mate. I have just recently purchased a 140amp alternator kit from cwc. And he reckons ill need my car touch up tuned as it runs more voltage what are your guys thoughts on this should i tell my friend he needs to pay off the tea spoon or is he right?? 

Hi, depending on how bad your voltage was before the alternator swap It can effect to tune.
Ie. I had a car running down to 13.2v on full load swapping to ls alternator I had 14.2 at full load. With extra voltage across the whole map.
It made the car run slightly richer than previous as noticed on the wide and when driving but didn’t do proper before alternator Dyno and after alternator swap dyno to get exact figures.
21 minutes ago, rat32r said:


Hi, depending on how bad your voltage was before the alternator swap It can effect to tune.
Ie. I had a car running down to 13.2v on full load swapping to ls alternator I had 14.2 at full load. With extra voltage across the whole map.
It made the car run slightly richer than previous as noticed on the wide and when driving but didn’t do proper before alternator Dyno and after alternator swap dyno to get exact figures.

Ok so he isnt wrong. I can tell you i drove the car today for around 3 hours as i went away with the family. And with the a/c blasting and thermos kicking in and out voltage was reading between 13.2v and 12.6v. So what your saying is worst case the car runs richer until i can get it touched up note these readings are my standard alternator not the new one coming from you

Edited by mrrb20det

It depends how accurate the injector voltage offset data has been set up. The point of the offset is to account for this exact thing, so if things are all set correctly no need to retune.

 

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Received & fitted my kit from Andrew yesterday.  

Andrew was very easy to deal with and sent the alternator off asap. 

Overall very happy with the kit. It was packaged very well for postage.

Quality looks great and everything was there for a quick install. 

Have around 14.2v @idle when warm. 

I would highly recommend the kit to anyone considering it. 

 

Cheers mate  @rat32r

20190709_115123.jpg

20190709_115248.jpg

20190709_115256.jpg

20190709_121815.jpg

20190709_121821.jpg

  • Like 1

Is this the same as the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273533325819 kit on eBay?  Any discount for us SAUers? haha.

Does anyone know how they compare to other approaches?

https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator

https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html

The main benefit I could see of the LS1 + adaptor approach is once you have the bracket, adapter, pulley, etc - if the alternator ever needs replacement you can just pick up cheaper LS1 140A alternator?

10 minutes ago, jrm said:

Is this the same as the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273533325819 kit on eBay?  Any discount for us SAUers? haha.

Does anyone know how they compare to other approaches?

https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator

https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html

The main benefit I could see of the LS1 + adaptor approach is once you have the bracket, adapter, pulley, etc - if the alternator ever needs replacement you can just pick up cheaper LS1 140A alternator?

Yep same as the ebay kit. 

 

Have a look back through this thread, pretty sure a few people have had a wait on the ard alternators and not readily available and cheap like ls1 alternators. Pick up 2nd hand ls1 alt for $50-$100.  

As you said the advantage is being able to remove the pulley & adapter to use it on another ls1 alt if need be but if you buy a new one in the kit the likely hood of needing to replace should be pretty low. 

 

I'd send Andrew a message and get a price. His number is on the thread a few pages back.

Is this the same as the https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273533325819 kit on eBay?  Any discount for us SAUers? haha.

Does anyone know how they compare to other approaches?
https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator
https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html
The main benefit I could see of the LS1 + adaptor approach is once you have the bracket, adapter, pulley, etc - if the alternator ever needs replacement you can just pick up cheaper LS1 140A alternator?

I take of care of sau members just email me [email protected]
Or message 0417677905
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...