Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

Am going single turbo and am i a little unsure about the oil and water lines. See pick below

2018-02-06_08-14-12

Are the areas marked A the oil feeds? If so what are the thread sizes on the block? What size hose is best recommended?

The areas marked B are the oil drains correct?

In relation to water lines. Is it best to use the feed from the top rad house outlet?

In terms of recirculating the water, there is a water bypass tube under the inlet manfold, is it best to route the water to there or is somewhere else better?

Thanks for your help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473283-rb26-single-turbo-oilwater-lines/
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, r32-25t said:

The front A is the oil feed and the A at the back of the block is the water feed 

and both the B are the oil returns 

Thanks! Does anyone know what the thread size is on the block for the water and oil feeds?

Also what size an hose is ideal?

the top of the radiator is a water return... if you use that as your feed you're in for a bad time.
Out the block back into the top of the radiator is how i and a lot of others have done it, just weld/plug off the nipple under the plenum, then you have one less damn hose behind the head to worry about

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, sneakey pete said:

the top of the radiator is a water return... if you use that as your feed you're in for a bad time.
Out the block back into the top of the radiator is how i and a lot of others have done it, just weld/plug off the nipple under the plenum, then you have one less damn hose behind the head to worry about

Thanks will do this.

As i am going braided turbo lines i am removing the stock front oil drain screw in fitting and changing to an AN fitting.

Due to the angle of the drain you will need to remove the engine mount to remove this fitting if the engine is still in the car.....

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 22/02/2018 at 1:22 AM, XGTRX said:

Don't forget to consider the need for a restrictor for your oil feed.  A $20 in line filter is also a good idea.

Thanks will remember this.

For water lines, an8 feed and an10 drain sufficient?

What size lines for oil feed and drain?? 

What thread size are the oil feed and drain threads on the block?

 

  • 3 weeks later...

Right guys, incase there are more amatuers like me, on an rb26 block

Front turbo oil drain is 3/4 npt (first B in my pic)

Rear turbo oil drain uses a gt/gtx/efr oil drain adapter. Ie https://gcg.com.au/petrol-performance/performance-2/oil-drain-fittings-accessories/oil-drain-kit-gt-gtx-efr-series-10an-male-detail    (second B in my pic)

Oil feed is m12x1.25 (first A in my pic)

Water feed or return on the block is m14x1.5 (second A in my pic)

Fwiw i went 10an for the oil drain, 8an for water feed/drain and 4an for oil feed. Hope this helps anyone who is reading.

 

Does anyone know the thread size for the mac boost solenoids? I was sure they were m10x1.0 but the fittings dont really want to go in. Perhaps i need to clean the threads on the solenoid??

Edited by WantGTR
  • Like 1

Um.....MAC valves (the typical 35 series that are usually used in cars, and actually, most of the smaller MAC valves) are 1/8" NPT.  As you'd expect for an American product.

The 3/4" drain in an RB26 block, on the other hand, is sooooooo unlikely to be NPT (being Japanese, who realistically use BSP for everything).

  • Like 1
27 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Um.....MAC valves (the typical 35 series that are usually used in cars, and actually, most of the smaller MAC valves) are 1/8" NPT.  As you'd expect for an American product.

The 3/4" drain in an RB26 block, on the other hand, is sooooooo unlikely to be NPT (being Japanese, who realistically use BSP for everything).

Are you sure about the mac valve? I took one of the fittings off, there arent many threads and theres no taper. I took the fitting to supercheap and tested it on the bolt size rack thing. Screwed in and out perfectly on m10x1.0

With the drain i used a speedflow fitting, part no 816-10-12. Looked the same as the stock drain thread and fits perfectly.

The fittings i have mentioned in the above post are currently on the car so i can confirm they work.

There's really only 1 size at which BSP and NPT screw together properly.  That's 1/2".  It's not that they're exactly the same.....they are just the same to within the tolerances of the thread specs.  Other sizes, like 3/4, just go together like a single turn, or maybe 2, before they jam up.

1/8" NPT has an outside (tips of the threads) diameter of 0.405".  That's 10.3mm (close enough).  The thread pitch is 27 per inch.  That's really close to 1mm pitch (but it's not!).

So it looks like M10x1.0, because M10 is like 0.35mm smaller than 1/8" NPT, and there's no way that your average dinkus can see the difference between 25.4 tpi and 27 tpi.  But the profile of the threads are not the same.....so trying to screw them together is not a recipe for the threads to work the way they are supposed to and get you a good seal.

Edited by GTSBoy
On 3/19/2018 at 8:30 PM, GTSBoy said:

Um.....MAC valves (the typical 35 series that are usually used in cars, and actually, most of the smaller MAC valves) are 1/8" NPT.  As you'd expect for an American product.

The 3/4" drain in an RB26 block, on the other hand, is sooooooo unlikely to be NPT (being Japanese, who realistically use BSP for everything).

Im sure the oil drain is 3/4 NPT which is the same as the gearbox drain/fill plugs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...