Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a RB30 with neo head and 3.4l stroker kit.

A couple of mornings ago I started it like I do every morning to warm up before going to work. It was idling and just shut off for some unknown reason and wouldn't start up again.

I thought it may have been the battery as it was only cranking at 9.3v, however I charged it and the voltage increased. So using the charged battery and also jumping off another car I tried to start it, no luck.

Next I checked the fuel lines to make sure it's getting fuel, all good.

Then I checked all the coil packs, all were sparking. Then I took all the plugs out and replaced them. Still no luck.
The old plugs were covered in what seems like oil, I'm 99% sure it's oil (Picture Attached). I know very little about automotive but I do believe that's not a good sign. I tried cranking after replacing and the new ones were also covered in whatever it is.  The engine has less than 10k on it. 

So the guy that built it reckons it's my immobilizer stopping it, but I haven't had a problem with it ever until now. The crank angle sensor, possibly? 
I have hooked up the ECU to check for error codes to no avail.

Bit more about the car:
Port & polished Garrett GTW6262R 1.15AR
Flex tuned to 50% ethanol
Haltech Platinum Pro ECU with IQ3
Splitfire Coilpacks
Turbosmart FPR/Wastegate/BOV
 

Also my oil light kept flicking on every now and then, although the oil seemed fine, may have something to do with it?

This is driving me crazy, I'm not in a great financial position to take it to be looked at, so any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

28721896_1688034137901082_502178707_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/
Share on other sites

If the coils were sparking it can't be the immobiliser or the cas.

Those plugs are fouled. Rich mixtures do that, as does burning oil.

you are in pretty deep there, especially considering the oil pressure light flicking. That's not an engine you want to hurt.

 

How bad did the new plugs look?

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7869532
Share on other sites

The new plugs look similar to the one pictured.

Would the ECU be stopping the at from starting to protect it maybe? In saying that it's showing no error codes. 

 

I've asked a couple of mechanics about it and has them stumped too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7869550
Share on other sites

The injectors are pulsing, all of them I can hear them all clicking. 

I've just tested the cam angle sensor and that's fine too. 

I read the car won't spark if it was the crank sensor, is that true?

 

The timing shouldn't be out the engine doesn't even have 10k on it.

I'll get a compression tester next I guess. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7869592
Share on other sites

GT-R David literally just said his cas would fire the injectors and spark but be way off in timing

the timing could easily go out if the timing belt is heaps loose. Just cos the Engine hasn’t done heaps of ks doesn’t mean all is well. A complete spaz might have bolted it together.....

59 minutes ago, aspinit said:

The injectors are pulsing, all of them I can hear them all clicking. 

I've just tested the cam angle sensor and that's fine too. 

I read the car won't spark if it was the crank sensor, is that true?

 

The timing shouldn't be out the engine doesn't even have 10k on it.

I'll get a compression tester next I guess. 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7869599
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

GT-R David literally just said his cas would fire the injectors and spark but be way off in timing

the timing could easily go out if the timing belt is heaps loose. Just cos the Engine hasn’t done heaps of ks doesn’t mean all is well. A complete spaz might have bolted it together.....

 

Well you were right, timing jumped 3 teeth. All I know so far.

Guy who built it says the only way it could've happened was excessive cranking, limiter bashing or it backfiring.

 

After blowing the original motor I have learnt to treat this with a lot of respect and don't believe this was my doing. Do you think he should be accountable for this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7869666
Share on other sites

A properly assembled motor can't skip a tooth let alone three.

Either the idler stud broke, it was never tensioned properly in the first place, or they added an additional idler or tensioner incorrectly during the build. No matter which I'm surprised it lasted 10k without showing up the issue.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7869699
Share on other sites

Okay, so my mechanic is insisting I limiter bash it everywhere, which is not the case at all. Its driven to from work everyday in peak hour traffic and gets pushed a little but not to the max every now and then.

I've moved states so can't take it back to the guy who built it. Neither him nor the mechanic I've taken it to now can understand what's happened, nor can I.

The cam got repositioned but was set 2 degrees out from its original position, I noticed a bit of loss in power and it sounded a little different, but it ran and I drove it around 200km no problems apart from it feeling a little different to before it started playing up and the oil pressure gauge flicking all over the place (Dodgy sensor I'm guessing). This morning same thing happens again, it shit itself and wouldn't start, it didn't sound good at all this time.

We did a comp test and it ranged from 190-210. Cylinders 1 5 6 had oil on the plugs and were the lower comp ones. The mechanic said he has no idea what it is unless he takes it apart, which I think he'll be doing.

The new mechanic said something about the fuel/air mixture being to rich and it causes problems like this. Could it be running to rich on startup maybe? Because its the second time its happens now on a cold start.

What do you guys think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7870137
Share on other sites

I agreee with my post 2 statement that rich mixtures and oil burning fouls plugs. 

I think you should take this to a trustworthy workshop and get some proper advice. 

 

 

I am concerned by your thoughts on the oil pressure.  I would be getting a proper gauge in it ASAP rather than just assuming the sensor is dodgy. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7870138
Share on other sites

So this is the damage he has discovered so far. 2 cam journals came off or something (I only understand real basic stuff). The oil pressure light was on because it was losing pressure, but I checked the oil every time it did and topped it up if need, most the time the dipstick read as full. 

So the damage has been caused by low oil, which seems to have been escaping due to the damage around the cam. I'm being told it's my fault for not having enough oil, although I messaged my mechanic and asked him about the reading on the dipstick which he said was fine. I understand that it may be my fault for not having enough oil, but it would've had enough if the engine was built properly and wasn't escaping past the damaged cam?

From what it looks like this is going to cost quite a bit to fix. My mechanic is in Tasmania & I'm in Melbourne and I'm struggling to find a company to transport my non running car to Tassie. I've spoken to VACC and they've told me it will be covered by warranty/insurance if it's found I'm not at fault.

How much do you guys think I'm up for? Can't believe this has happened :/

29003834_1702448736459622_667002023_n.jpg

29004266_1702448753126287_138629047_n.jpg

29134541_1702448726459623_1303063308_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7870690
Share on other sites

Shit 

 

Oil pressure light coming on basically means your engine is now f**ked, it's not a gentle reminder to top up the oil 

Sorry you have had to learn the hard way.

Hope you get it sorted out easily

  • Sad 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7870707
Share on other sites

If the problem is only the cam journals you  put another head on it and replace the cam.  If the oil pressure issue also caused a crank bearing to spin then you will need to machine the crank, and put in new bearings and probably rings at the same time. The crank, pistons, block, oil pump etc will probably be reusable but the machine shop will have to confirm.

As for fault...in my experience shops only tell you how responsible they are for any issues before they get your money. After some expensive failure has happened you learn that they don't actually stand behind their work, that they can't actually afford to fix the issue either, or that their workshop's insurer has a whole bunch of lawyers who are willing to spend money on telling you why it's not their fault instead of spending money fixing it.

Find a local mechanic you trust to strip it unless the guy in Tas has agreed up front it is his fault. Get the new guy to take pics all through and if they form the view it was the original builder's fault send them the bill. At least that way you save the 000s it will cost to ship a dead car to Tassie for them to tell you they are not at fault (in their opinion).

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473489-rb34-wont-start/#findComment-7870720
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...