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Joel,

My 215.5rwkw run had a trap speed of 109.5mph & a 60ft of 2.153 (13.1 ET)

Aside from a good power to weight ratio the 2 biggest factors that help Brad's GTR run the times it does are grip (suspension/slicks) & "most importantly" diff/gearing! I think you'll find Brad's GTR, with it's 4.56 ratio & 5k stall auto, will run out of top end well before your Skyline. If we were to gear our cars the same way we'd run significantly quicker ET's but our NT hwy high speed runs would drop by just as much :D

If we lined the Joel GTS-t up vs. the Brad GTR & did a standing start the GTR would reach the 400m mark quite a bit quicker, but if we didn't stop @ the 400m mark (apart from ending up in the sand trap :) ) you'd find the GTS-t would eventually run down & pass the GTR.

Some time ago I got the chance to open my car up on a safe stretch of tarmac, I got up to 6200-6300rpm in 5th, this works out to be ~247km/h (using rpm, diff & gear ratios + tyre circumference).

Out of interest Brad what's your GTR's top speed?

Originally posted by -Joel-

I'm not doubting you but i really find it hard to get my head around 120rwkw pulling a high 12sec run.. :(

NO offence but..

I would really like to know your 60ft times as it makes a hell of a difference.

But then i think but u have the trap speed as well.

I remember when whatsisname ran his which was making 216rwkw he ran a trap speed of 108mph i think it was?!?

and 2.1 60ft.

That cam must come on harder than most turbos thats all i can say :D

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Originally posted by Nightcrawler

Compare a 1,440kg dry R33 GTS25T and they would need (in theory) 192.77rwkw to have similar performance :)

A GTS25t has a dry weight of:

1370kg - 5sp

1390kg - Auto

Note: Fig's straight outta' the factory sales books :D

My lard arse Skyline came in @ 1445kg (wet) on the RAAF weigh bridge (1/2 tank of juice, full trim, spare etc...) Full weight with me on board is ~1520kg = 161rwkw/ton.

Originally posted by Martin Donnon

I might have to wind those stock Soarer turbos up to 1.4 bar and put another 20,000km on em just to teach you a lesson! I really didnt expect to outpower you guys with stock turbos, and some bolt on mods. Must be all in the tuning. Pity no powerful Skylines turned up. Would have been good. Whole day was hard work!

Yeah do it ST, wind the boost up to buggery :) Stuff getting another 20k outta' them. Just keep winding boost into them until they don't make anymore rwkw, or a CT12A turbine wheel ends up somewhere down Nth East Rd :lol:

Seriously though the JZGTE family (1 & 2) is very impressive!

I could've gone & wound the boost to 1.2bar & beyond but I doubt it would've got me 280+rwkw, but I am 100% SURE if I'd cracked pistons in the process the repair costs would see one very angry wife + new born @ home :cuss: :gaga: :chairshot:

GFXMAN

I may have squeeled a slight littl bit but it was quite a clean launch.

I remember hearing squeeling behind me?!?!

Maybe it was my back wheels.. ?!?

Anway i assumed it was the VX as Well i heard the squeel and I was off I thought that u's didn't get a good launch..

All i can say is stupid stupid arse i am.. :shake:

Originally posted by -Joel-

Matt u'd be happy with an extra 10rwkw on top of your 236rwkw.. :D

I've performed a few xtra minor tweaks since the 236 run @ RPM, nothing much but it all adds up. The 236 was after a full tune too so heat soak would've been a factor.

Rich A/FR's show it's got some more in it yet! I need a 1.2-1.5mm head gasket (some 550's would be a good idea too) :)

Matt, I was speaking to someone the other day who instals Haltech computers and does other stuff and he said he knows someone interstate that is able to drill injectors to any size and obtain good results. Its costs about $80 each to do but you wouldnt need a new fuel rail.

Originally posted by Clint32

Matt, I was speaking to someone the other day who instals Haltech computers and does other stuff and he said he knows someone interstate that is able to drill injectors to any size and obtain good results.  Its costs about $80 each to do but you wouldnt need a new fuel rail.

Clint,

I'm interested! :uh-huh: Haven't got a lot of cash flow ATM but I'm very interested none the less!

So they drill out the stock injectors to a larger size? i.e 370cc becomes 450cc. Provided that it's a reliable end product I'm very very interested!!!

:)

yeah thats about it, he said that in the past people have tried it and it didnt work as well as a normal injector, but this place has got it right, he used some in a VL i think with a 3L and RB25 head running haltech. Next time I speak to him ill try and find some more info.

I'd like to thank everyone for a great morning. Sorry i couldn't hang around too long, had to go play cricket.

108 rwkw is a good start point now i need to add to it. I feel a nice 3 inch exhaust coming on with a front mount intercooler.

Originally posted by Clint32

yeah thats about it, he said that in the past people have tried it and it didnt work as well as a normal injector, but this place has got it right, he used some in a VL i think with a 3L and RB25 head running haltech.  Next time I speak to him ill try and find some more info.

High flowing the stock injectors sounds like the way to go, IF it works well. Let me know what you find out thanks mate :)

Originally posted by -Joel-

So what type of tweak.... ??

A Bottle of the Octane Booster.. ?!? :)

Naa I don't use OB these days, fouls plugs!

Since the initial LT12 tune I've had:

* Furthering tuning by Tim

* Oil catch can

* Replaced the stock BOV & piping for a GFB "Basic" atmo' (actually flows more CFM than the GFB loud BOV's)

* Plus about 25klms ago I did a full fluid & filter cx, Fresh Motul 300V eng' oil / Redline "Shockproof" lightweight g/box & Redline diff' fluids (all of which helps mimimise d/train losses).

Like I wrote earlier, I think a big factor was that the 236rwkw run was after a full tune. The inlet tract was well heat soaked when we did the final power run, just ask Bug's how hot the engine bay/turbo etc.. was! The turbo was red hot & water temps were well up.

I think 250rwkw @ 1.0bar is not out of the question as is (need injectors to be safe though).

H8 to say it whatsisname but gear oil wont do shit to your power figures, if it did i would put some magic Redline stuff in my nine inch diff and pick up 20 hp hehe. The only real way u will make power is bolt on MODS or head work balancing etc. BTW does octane booster realy FOUL plugs ? as my last set of plugs looked pretty gummy and i was using boosters in that new engine. hmm

Originally posted by GTR King

H8 to say it whatsisname but gear oil wont do shit to your power figures, if it did i would put some magic Redline stuff in my nine inch diff and pick up 20 hp hehe. The only real way u will make power is bolt on MODS or head work balancing etc. BTW does octane booster realy FOUL plugs ? as my last set of plugs looked pretty gummy and i was using boosters in that new engine. hmm

Brad,

Yep mate you're dead right, oils won't MAKE power but they sure will REDUCE drivetrain losses!

For example, take a 200hp eng'/drivetrain combo running on average grade oils (or oil that's seen better days) run it on the dyno & it'll make 130rwhp. Now drain those average or old oils & refill with top quality "proven" oils, run the car again & instead of 130rwhp (70hp DT loss) you'll find a 135hp (65hp loss) sure it's not much but 5rwhp is 5rwhp! Of course you’re not going to gain 20hp from a diff oil cx, unless you're currently using 500W/1000 ;)

By "proven" I mean an oil that has shown measurable gains in comprehensive testing on a dyno, such as Redline!

The important factor with high quality low viscosity oils (ie. Motul 5W/30 – 10W/40 or Redline “Shockproof”) is they have better temp’ protection properties than a lower grade or mineral oil yet the use lower viscosity to do it. Lower viscosity means less internal friction & reduction in lost power.

Have a read here - http://www.redlineoil.com/dyno.htm

i would recommend this oil if any. http://www.torcoracingoils.com/assets/frames2.htm

also i can bet money these test were done on big cubed v8`s so a gain would be minimal under 300 hp. I know TORCO is a great oil as lotsa australin drag racers have proven that. As for redline never heard of it. My saying is Go with what u know about and i know TORCO works. check it out prob cheaper than redline.

Honestly i'd say the redline is the better gear.

Made in the usa.. Usa is a bigger place.. more ppls more money more technology more research and development.

Compare a Jap car to a Aussy Holden/Ford for example.

The research and development hasn't gone in to either of these cars because they don't have as much competition and also they aren't going to sell as many as say a Usa based Ford or Nissan/Toyota in Japan.

Compare the build qualtiy and strength.

Thats my logic anyhow.

Exactly like Motul Oils..

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