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Originally posted by GTR King

i would recommend this oil if any. http://www.torcoracingoils.com/assets/frames2.htm

also i can bet money these test were done on big cubed v8`s so a gain would be minimal under 300 hp. I know TORCO is a great oil as lotsa australin drag racers have proven that. As for redline never heard of it. My saying is Go with what u know about and i know TORCO works. check it out prob cheaper than redline.

Redline product tests are carried out on all types of engines, long haul truck, race bikes, production performance street cars, full drag cars & so on...

Have a good read of the dyno link I posted above, it was carried out on a stock production C5 Corvette, which runs the LS1/GEN3 Commie engine, i.e. nothing special (if you can call a C5 Corvette nothin' special).

Read this - http://www.c5-corvette.com/redline.htm

I've used a number of oils (diff,g/box & eng) over the yrs, including but not limited to, Motul / Castrol / Mobil / Redline / Shell / Repsol. I use Motul 300V for the engine & Redline in the diff/'box. The Redline "Shockproof" is no gimmick! It works, & bloody well :uh-huh: The improvement in shift quality is nothing short of amazing! Some OEM truck manufacturers insist on owners using Redline "Shockproof" to honour g/box warranty claims!

I'm starting to sound like I work for Redline ;)

As for Redline & motorsports (drag racing in particular) have a look here - http://www.redlineoil.com/motorsports.htm

I've not used Torco but I was aware of it, it's looks like a proven product.

The Torco website also shows hp gains from using quality drivetrain lubricants, exactly what I was getting @ to start with!

Forget about 1kw mods, start planning 20kw mods. Thats the only way you are going to achieve decent power. With a proper turbocharger, you wouldnt be running stock turb figures (for the mods you have made), and decent tune/AFRs, not 11.2:1, you should easily crack 265rwkw. Be careful how you answer here though cos I showed you how easy 280 odd was with turbos rated at '200' max. You didnt believe it, you probably wouldnt believe your own car with a decent 2535 making 280 odd as well.

I agree with Martin.

He has proven some facts with his mods and stock turbos. 5 kw mods r squat to me so i agree look for 20-50 kw mods for notacable improvements. Thats it im bitten by the bug, 1 R33 300-400 kw coming up. I can hear a HKS turbo coming on hehe. gimmee a year or so and im gona fry that dyno. well im new to this turbo skyline thingo so i guess ill have to pick martins brains when the time comes.

GTR King.

Have you thought about a R32 GTR????

Exhaust, Boost, CAI and you should be able to touch the lowish 12's... (see GTR-Ben's Sig)

If you want more 2x HKS GT2540's are around $1500-1700 each from some places. Well I was offered 1 for $1500-1700 and he had another.

In a GTS-T Lowish 12's is extremly hard due to traction problems up to 100km's maybe a little more i'm not sure... (whatsisname?) ;)

Rig up a switch for when you want to disable the 4wd.

I'm not sure if you know but the GTR's drive like a Rwd car then when it detects slip it starts to feed torque to the front wheels.

The R33's do look a bit newer and nicer BUT.. depends on what you are after. When You sit in a R32 GTR it feels like a race car.

All depends on Budget really :D

R33 GTR would be nice too.. :D $$$

Thanks for a good day everyone.

Even though my figures were the lowest on the day it gives me a benchmark to work on for when I start doing statrt spending money and do some mods.

That 60rwkw gain on that R33 after and muffler and cat swap sure opened my eyes! :eek:

Originally posted by Martin Donnon

Forget about 1kw mods, start planning 20kw mods. Thats the only way you are going to achieve decent power. With a proper turbocharger, you wouldnt be running stock turb figures (for the mods you have made), and decent tune/AFRs, not 11.2:1, you should easily crack 265rwkw. Be careful how you answer here though cos I showed you how easy 280 odd was with turbos rated at '200' max. You didnt believe it, you probably wouldnt believe your own car with a decent 2535 making 280 odd as well.

Yeah I know the 1-2hp mods are piddly but hey I'm just tinkering till the $ are sufficient to "really" play. At one stage my car had a grand total of 126rwkw (in the early days) so with almost double that now it's not like I've been chasing 1-2hp mods all along. Man I've got a head full of 20-50-100kw plans, I just don't have the cash flow to do them atm. Well I could but my other 1/2 & new bub wouldn't be very impressed with me!

The A/FR's need some work no doubt about it! And I'd love a 2535 You're welcome to use my car as a test mule to demonstrate the benefits of the 2535/RB25DET combo :)

I was a non-believer but I sure do believe now, it's damn impressive what '200' max turbos can really make if well set-up!

:)

Yeah Joel i hear ya there,

It all comes down to dollars, i Dont realy want a 4wd car let alone afford the one i want "looks at MUNRO gimme" hehe. So im gonna stick with the rwd R33. 200 rwhp doesnt intrest me much. I have driven 11.1 second cars and that what im aiming for. BIG everything sounds good to me but not much external rice gear. Just a nice looking streeter that performs. Something that loooks stock with nice wheels. so stock turbos aint gonna do the job. Prob whack on 1 BIG single turbo and crank it up thru that. Im the sorta person thats not happy with smaller rwkw im suprised ive put up with my torana this long but as u know that can do 12s so its reasonable fast for me. Only thing is i want power that pulls in every gear like a train till i run outa revs. Big $$$ but i think it would be worth it. Being single and no kids has its advantages ! My car will be my baby :)

Honestly you will find it very hard to hit the 11's with a R33 and if you do well you will be spending a lot of money on a motor rebuild to hold that sort of power.

I'm not talking about slicks here as slicks in my book is kind of cheating.. :) An R33 I know of with 171 rwkw was able to hit high 12's running semi-slicks.

A R32 GTR makes standard around the mid 170rwkw and boosted etc exhaust will make possibly around 220rwkw if you have the ecu mapped. Possibly.. Any1..?!?

You should be able to run low 12's.

Turbo Upgrade and mapped ecu will pop you in to the 11's no problems. Hopefully well alot more easily than the R33 Rwd.

It all comes down to rwd.

And this is all on stock street tyres.

Slap slicks on and it will be a totaly different story.

Seriously look at the price between a decent R32 GTR and a Decent R33 and then the money you will have to spend to be as quick and i think in the end you will be ahead with the R32 GTR.

R32 GTR's arn't very expensive.

Seriously look in to the mods $$ etc of both cars test drive both cars and see what you like.

A R32 GTR looks very stock looking Basically like the GTS-T but with slightly pumped guards.. I'm sure you have seen a few.

I personally like the sleeper look.. :)

And I am aiming for possibly a high 12 on street tyres.

Which with slicks i'm not sure what i would pull.

In a GTS-T 220rwkw (300rwhp) with good tyres a high 12 is possible.

Hopefully I shouldn't have heaps of traction trouble as i'm keeping the suspension fairly stock and not slapping a set of hard springs etc.

But that will pull like a train until the rev's run out.

Really compare your Torana which really launches super hard and pulls a high 12 this will be running out up top so if you jump in to a skyline that makes an extra 140HP or so at the rear wheels this is going to really fly up top especially when they weigh the same.

BUT.. if you want a really fast streeter go the 32 GTR.

Probably close to the price of a good R33 GTS-T.

What ever you do don't write off the GTR as an option.. :(

Originally posted by GTR King

does octane booster realy FOUL plugs ? as my last set of plugs looked pretty gummy and i was using boosters in that new engine. hmm

Brad,

Using too much OB tends to coat the plugs in residue. This shows up as an orange coating with some OB's. A turbo engine that's been using OB will have the turbine wheel covered in the stuff too. I'd guess that some are better than others? (i.e provide RON increases with less build up).

I'm no "expert" on OB (or anything else automotive for that matter, aircraft however....) but I'd rather tune for 98RON & keep the plugs as foul free as possible, which my current 11.2 A/FR isn't helping :)

If only we could get 100+RON unleaded @ the pump :uh-huh:

To be honest with u, no offence, I personaly dont like the look of r32 gts cars i think they r a bit old school not bad but personaly r33 look more apealing to me. as for running 11 second quarter im sure i can do this as i have been drag racing for about 13 years now and know what it takes. Im sure the power im gonna shove thru it it will do it with ease :] I reckon i could get 120 mph down the drags pretty easy just gota get it off the mark quickly and minimize wheel spin the let the power do the rest. Usually the track is pretty sticky so once u hooked up it should pull pretty hard methinks. As for a 32 gtr aint they like 40- 50 grand ? for 20k can get a 33 and for another 20 i can get a killer motor. so to me the gtr is outa the question. BTW i dont wanna be paying for blown transaxles etc 1 diff is bad enough

Guest SPOOLIN

GTR King the turbo gets covered in sh!t because the Exhaust gas (which is full of OB crap) runs thru it ,thats how turbos spool up :shake: and $20k for motor what about the clutch and 6 speed holinger or you could use a Lenco or a Pro Stock Liberty:uh-huh:

Joel R33 GTST are way cheaper than a R32 GTR probably by $10k so could buy some nice mods for that, or wait till a 33 comes along will all the GFB's on it like i did.

Lee

Tim sold his old 32 GTR for high 20's which was making 270rwkw with small N1 turbo's and could push 300rwkw.

That had a nice new fresh paint job etc etc.. Microtech install etc..

But that is my opinion.. :)

I like the ol' 32's...

Would you do the RB30DET conversion, adapt the Oil squirters fully balanced, lightened flywheel, forgy's etc etc..

There is a thread at the moment check it out the motor costs 10k to build then you need to worry about trans.. as the std one won't handle it.. not to mention the diff if you run wide slicks..

Then again the Diff might handle it.. I've never heard of diff's breaking due to to much power?!?!?

Here's a Quote from SDU.. Sydney Kid..

have just seen the engine dyno charts on on Nizpro's just completed RB30DET (RB30 bottom end with RB26 cylinder head).

It cranks out 764hp (570kW) running 98RON premium unleaded and with only 25 psi boost. On a diet of C16 race fuel it'll do an awesome 937hp (699kW) with 34 psi boost. Simon says it's capable of over 1000hp (about 750kW) if he ever decides to 'lean on it' a bit harder...

The interesting thing for me is that it has a standard RB30 block and crankshaft (nitrited, ground and balanced) with Nizmo rods and 1 mm oversize Cosworth 8.0 to 1 pistons. The block rigidity is helped by a 50 mm machined steel full girdle at the main bearings.

There are bound to be some articles around about it in the near future. look out.

----

And another Quote

Cost is an interesting problem, it really depends on what you have to start with and what extras you want at the end. If you were to supply a complete RB25DET in good condition, it would cost around $10K to get a 600 BHP RB30DET back. Not including a flywheel, clutch or ECU. In addition you would have to have a suitable intercooler, intercooler piping, air filter, cold air feed, oil cooler, radiator and exhaust.

----

And here's the thread..

http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/t18348/s.html

Does this sound like your kind of motor Brad?!?! :burnout:

Hey guys just a quick one on the octane boosters, I used one sort of on saturday. I did one run as normal which gave me 160 then I used Toluene at a mixture of 7:1 which is fairly lean and then got 166, will be using more of on the road well worth it:D

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