Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a hard question to answer and hoping someone here might know. 

While the GTR is dormant, I'm making a few additions to my WRX. I've just picked up a set of GT-C's which are off being restored, but the wheel nut situation is giving me hepatitis.

GT-C's are famous for being a unique wheel nut fitment and I'm trying to find an alternative option than tracking down original GT-C nuts. 

I've heard that Work RC nuts are potentially compatible https://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/work/rc-nuts

This would be a double benefit as they'd match the WRC Blue of the Rex. 

To my eye, they don't look like they'd fit.

Does anyone know if they would be compatible? I'd rather not order them, then find out they don't fit.... like I just did with a set of Rays standard nuts. 

Alternatively, if anyone knows of any other nuts which would fit, that would be helpful, too.

image.png.026d64e3b6e5498e9a9f9d6a5c7438a6.png

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Andrew.

Edited by Veilside R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473943-wheel-nuts-for-gt-cs/
Share on other sites

Interesting issue, I'd have thought the style above is the best chance of fitting as it has a very narrow wall for a 12mm threaded stud. 17mm socket is the smallest I've ever seen for M12 studs

What didn't fit with the rays nut? Was it that the nut could not run onto the stud, or that the provided tool did not fit inside the wheel? If the latter you might have luck which a specifically designed thin wall deep socket.

Personally I wouldn't use aluminium but that's for race nuts not road ones where it may not be such an issue. 

@Duncan So the unique thing about the GT-C nuts is that they don't use a socket around the perimetre, like most nuts. It's an open end and the tool locks to the inside. The standard rays Duralumin nuts are too wide and can't pass through the holes to access the thread.

@Jordy32 Thanks. Saw those and will order them if I can't find an aftermarket alternative. They're perfectly sufficient, but I'd rather something aftermarket as a first preference (like Kics, Work, etc). Good to know they're there as a fall-back if need be, though. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...