Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thankyou so much for taking that photo i really appreciate it, after examining it some more i noticed its cracked at the base of the filler neck on both sides, so are the top tanks replaceable or is it possible to grind a channel into the crack and fill it with a special glue, i mention this cos i remember seeing some glue and powder repair kit and on the video for it they show repairing a huge crack and they filled it with that stuff, you put some powder in and then some glue and it soaks in and then you add more powder and glue again and keep building it up, so has anyone done this or know anything about that?

You cannot repair them mate, if top tanks are available i've never seen one, I plastic weld with a Lister, but never radiators or fuel tanks. All those epoxy based filler glues are snake oil they don't work. If moneys a bit short grab a second hand one plenty of options in the big city There are even cheap all aluminium ones although take a good look at the welds some look a bit work experience.

  • 2 weeks later...

this is where its cracked on the base of the filler neck, so does anyone think using a proper plastic radiator repair glue they sell at auto stores will work on it?
As you can see it has a crack that i can see on each side of the neck but i dont know if thry are 2 seperate cracks on each side or if its one long continuous crack

IMG_4032.jpgIMG_4028.jpg

i thought about getting a secondhand one but was worried that most of them probably have been laying in a backyard and not had the openings blocked up and the core is probably full of spiders and rust and god knows what.
I also thought since the crack is just on the neck that it might be ok to repair

Hey Mick I took the photo for you and explained that the crap they sell to fix them does not work, and wishing it will is for the fairies,  Get a second hand one or ebay alloy and be done with it. Asking the same question over and over will not fix it.

On 5/6/2018 at 8:00 PM, Rusty Nuts said:

You cannot repair them mate, if top tanks are available i've never seen one, I plastic weld with a Leister, but never radiators or fuel tanks. All those epoxy based filler glues are snake oil they don't work. If moneys a bit short grab a second hand one plenty of options in the big city There are even cheap all aluminium ones although take a good look at the welds some look a bit work experience.

 

If you dont know how to flush your coolant system, your friendly local rad shop will flush a second hand one for you for peanuts, I always laugh when someone says " I have a little coolant leak", its the same as saying your girlfriend is a little bit pregnant, both are gonna get bigger

if you actually read you will see that i only reposted the photo to ask what the bolt hole was for.

Then after posting photos of where the crack is and what it looks like i so people could get a better idea of how bad it is i then asked if anyone thought the proper plastic radiator glue would work.
I dont see anything wrong with doing that at all

Then after posting photos of where the crack is and what it looks like i so people could get a better idea of how bad it is i then asked if anyone thought the proper plastic radiator glue would work.
I dont see anything wrong with doing that at all

Mick, there is no such thing as proper plastic radiator glue, radiator plastic tanks are usually ABS and can be originally made from material made by Monsanto, Dow chemicals or a japanese/chinese Manufacturer and are difficult to WELD because of this, they have also been subjected to hundreds of hours of heat and fumes which alters their composition, flexibility etc. Hence why even welding is unreliable, their is NO glue that will fix them, you have all the answers mate, and no answers say use this glue its awesome, because they dont work. Bite the bullet and buy another radiator mate, over and out.

1 hour ago, Mick said:

if you actually read you will see that i only reposted the photo to ask what the bolt hole was for.

I took the photo you requested Mick, in your ORIGINAL post 13 days ago and I did not and i have not referred to your repost. Suggest you reread the thread. I have. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...