Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all - odd question.

I knew that upgrading to a 3" TBE with a 100cell cat would increase power and noise but after a few months of running it I am now getting just a tad sick from the fumes being emitted. I am wondering if anyone here has an RB25DET running a 3" Exhaust with a 200cel cat or higher and can confirm what power they are able to get from running a higher cel cat and how bad the fumes are,  better if you have changed from a 100cell cat to a higher cell cat. 

Currently making 204rwkw with no power modifications besides the Nistune & TBE - I am willing to sacrifice power.

 

I appreciate any feedback ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474607-100cel-200cell-power-outputfumes/
Share on other sites

Are you sure that the fumes are attributable to the 100 cell cat? Are your breathers and PCV valve up to scratch? Have you compression tested to see if you might have excessive blow by? Do you know someone with the ability to put an exhaust gas analyzer on you tail pipe? Are you running the stock blow off valve?

Get a tune!!!  Heaps of us here with performance CAT's and no fumes, and way more power than 200rwkw.

And when you are talking fumes, is it oil, gearbox oil, oil splash fumes, unburnt fuel, burnt fuel, burnt coolant, can you see smoke? is there black all over the back of the car? does the car leak oil when parked? heaps of problems that can be easily fixed, need to be more specific sorry.  

What fuel are you using?

I'm finding that going from 98 to E85 has made the car slightly more fume-y, using the exact same exhaust system and 100-cell cat.
I reckon ethanol in general provides a more olfactory experience.

Thank you both for your responses!

@KiwiRS4T

I have not checked any of what you have said - I will make a note and see if I come up with anything. I am not running any aftermarket BOV.

 

@tridentt150v

I have a Nistune ECU which was installed and mapped by a performance workshop already. I know the coolant and oil smell so I can write that off. No smoke and the back of the car is clean. My old STI ran rich but the smell is different to what I am getting now - I'm starting to think I may have a leak somewhere - the exhaust is new and was installed by a workshop.

Check the filler neck.....if its raw fuel then it can be an issue.  When they comply the car in Australia they replace the filler neck with a small hole 'unleaded' one.  Dodgy shops don't bond this to the original filler pipe/hose....a few of us on here have had to Sikaflex the gap.

Did you only notice the fumes after the exhaust and cat install?
I went from a 3 inch highflow cat (unknown what brand, maybe xforce?) to a venom 100cell and the fumes were definitely worse, but mainly when the car is idling in the garage is the only time i can really notice it. I'm assuming a 100cell cat won't do much in terms of reducing nasty emissions. I would just keep the 100 cell cat if i were you, changing cats could also put the tune out of whack.
How bad are the fumes? It shouldn't really be noticable at all with normal driving, unless you are moving really slowly in traffic or stationary.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...