Jump to content
SAU Community

100cel -> 200+cell & Power Output/Fumes

Ravskie

By Ravskie,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ravskie Apprentice

Ravskie

Posted
Posted

Hello all - odd question.

I knew that upgrading to a 3" TBE with a 100cell cat would increase power and noise but after a few months of running it I am now getting just a tad sick from the fumes being emitted. I am wondering if anyone here has an RB25DET running a 3" Exhaust with a 200cel cat or higher and can confirm what power they are able to get from running a higher cel cat and how bad the fumes are,  better if you have changed from a 100cell cat to a higher cell cat. 

Currently making 204rwkw with no power modifications besides the Nistune & TBE - I am willing to sacrifice power.

 

I appreciate any feedback ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474607-100cel-200cell-power-outputfumes/
Share on other sites
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Are you sure that the fumes are attributable to the 100 cell cat? Are your breathers and PCV valve up to scratch? Have you compression tested to see if you might have excessive blow by? Do you know someone with the ability to put an exhaust gas analyzer on you tail pipe? Are you running the stock blow off valve?

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Get a tune!!!  Heaps of us here with performance CAT's and no fumes, and way more power than 200rwkw.

And when you are talking fumes, is it oil, gearbox oil, oil splash fumes, unburnt fuel, burnt fuel, burnt coolant, can you see smoke? is there black all over the back of the car? does the car leak oil when parked? heaps of problems that can be easily fixed, need to be more specific sorry.  

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

What fuel are you using?

I'm finding that going from 98 to E85 has made the car slightly more fume-y, using the exact same exhaust system and 100-cell cat.
I reckon ethanol in general provides a more olfactory experience.

Ravskie Apprentice

Ravskie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thank you both for your responses!

@KiwiRS4T

I have not checked any of what you have said - I will make a note and see if I come up with anything. I am not running any aftermarket BOV.

 

@tridentt150v

I have a Nistune ECU which was installed and mapped by a performance workshop already. I know the coolant and oil smell so I can write that off. No smoke and the back of the car is clean. My old STI ran rich but the smell is different to what I am getting now - I'm starting to think I may have a leak somewhere - the exhaust is new and was installed by a workshop.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Check the filler neck.....if its raw fuel then it can be an issue.  When they comply the car in Australia they replace the filler neck with a small hole 'unleaded' one.  Dodgy shops don't bond this to the original filler pipe/hose....a few of us on here have had to Sikaflex the gap.

vxsr33 Proficient

vxsr33

Posted
Posted

Did you only notice the fumes after the exhaust and cat install?
I went from a 3 inch highflow cat (unknown what brand, maybe xforce?) to a venom 100cell and the fumes were definitely worse, but mainly when the car is idling in the garage is the only time i can really notice it. I'm assuming a 100cell cat won't do much in terms of reducing nasty emissions. I would just keep the 100 cell cat if i were you, changing cats could also put the tune out of whack.
How bad are the fumes? It shouldn't really be noticable at all with normal driving, unless you are moving really slowly in traffic or stationary.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...