Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes.  But what you have in your bay does not match the manual.  The line you are holding IS going between the canister and a solenoid, but the solenoid is behind the PS reservoir, which would tend to suggest that it is the boost control solenoid valve, not the purge solenoid valve.  Just follow the lines in the last image I posted and you will see what is supposed to connected to where.  I can't show you a completely useful photo of mine, because it is in an R32 and the canister is different.

  • Thanks 1
4 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes.  But what you have in your bay does not match the manual.  The line you are holding IS going between the canister and a solenoid, but the solenoid is behind the PS reservoir, which would tend to suggest that it is the boost control solenoid valve, not the purge solenoid valve.  Just follow the lines in the last image I posted and you will see what is supposed to connected to where.  I can't show you a completely useful photo of mine, because it is in an R32 and the canister is different.

Thanks a munch for your help mate. Yes your correct, it was auto but has been manual converted recently. I have been having boost power issues since the conversion, the boost just seems to drop out after 4k rpms and only kicks in around 3k rpms. Sorry to complicate things mate but im trying to find anything that is related and im thinking this might be

47 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

That's the boost control solenoid.

I have an electric boost controller and may have mistaken it but doesn’t this line hook up to a manual boost controller on some cars?

 

Edited by Robocop2310

The OEM boost control solenoid is hooked up to vent some of the boost signal from the compressor outlet tapping port on its way to the wastegate actuator.  the instant you put in any other sort of boost controller (manual, EBC, whatever), the original solenoid is no longer used.  The new boost controller then does what the original one used to do.

  • Thanks 2
8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The OEM boost control solenoid is hooked up to vent some of the boost signal from the compressor outlet tapping port on its way to the wastegate actuator.  the instant you put in any other sort of boost controller (manual, EBC, whatever), the original solenoid is no longer used.  The new boost controller then does what the original one used to do.

Ok thanks mate, i dont have a manual boost controller so do you think this is why i am having boost issues?

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

It's in the last picture I posted.

I cant tell where there going to in the diagram. It looks like it goes to something on kr near the pipe but i cant see anything like that in my engine bay. Also i have this t piece here, is that normal or are those lines meant to go to the solenoid?

20181028_100136.jpg

You won't find anyone who can show you a photo of a stock setup, because no-one has a stock setup.

So, if you look at the last diagram, you will see where hoses are supposed to sit, and if you look at the first diagram, and follow the pipes between the solenoid, turbo outlet and turbo inlet, you should be able to work it out, including the T piece.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...