Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has 4.3s. It's too short for my liking. My car tops out at 270kph at racetracks (not the road before you all jump in).
It's ok on the road (twisties and freeway alike), but if you have anything north of 400whp its probably not a great plan.

If I could be bothered/have the money I'd get them shortened.

1 hour ago, Steve85 said:

My car has 4.3s. It's too short for my liking. My car tops out at 270kph at racetracks (not the road before you all jump in).
It's ok on the road (twisties and freeway alike), but if you have anything north of 400whp its probably not a great plan.

If I could be bothered/have the money I'd get them shortened.

Yes especially as OP is not building a track car. Open road cruising at 3000 rev/min will soon become tiresome...even 4.1 is about 2700. Look for a complete GTR rear end ( I found one for $1200) and then you get the LSD, the axles, alloy hubs and 2 pot brakes.

  • Like 1
14 hours ago, admS15 said:

1st to 3rd is quite snappy. With 420whp, traction is a bit of an issue. If you can get it to grip, it goes like a rocket. 4th, the speed just keeps piling on.

You won't notice too much of a difference vs 4.11 other than a little quicker through the gears and a couple hundred higher rpm at cruising speed in 5th.

Yeah sounds great, thanks for the heads up.

I'm looking forward to the 4.3 as when i typed it online, it seems a fair few people have tried to convert 4.1 to 4.3 so must be for good reason.

My car will never see a track anyway, i strictly drive road only and the odd beating on a dual or motorway but nothing serious.

Traction will be because your running the stock 1 wheel spinning diff still aren't you?

If i put the super Q 1.5 way in the back, being 4wd it should grip better than a stock GTR shouldn't it?

Thanks

Arr i see, sorry thought you were 4wd..  slightly lost track of who has what in these comments.

Do you have the normal Kaaz or the WPC treated super Q in yours?

And yeah tyre's do help, the super Q transformed my GTT. I have 295 35 18 PS2's on the rear which are good but i think there's still room for improvement with the supersports or the PS4S if i could get hold of them sizes.. there supposed to be mega sticky even in crap conditions.

Yeah the 4wd is the only reason iv bought this car so i can put the power down much better and use it more 

My GTT isn't worth taking out unless its a dry sunny day and the roads are better.. too much rain and greasy roads because of buses, so if it gets moist.. full boost is pointless on rwd

My M5 has a great mech LSD diff in it and they bring the torque in later so they let you put some power down before all hell brakes lose. 

 

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Almost always for drag.

 Turbo cars on the road are almost always better with taller diff ratios.

100%. The last owner of mine built it for drag purposes. I'm sure of it. 

I'm busy trying to make it a more useful road car. 

My advice would be stick with the 4.1s you'll be better off in the long run, especially if you go chasing power.
But as with all things. It's your car, you do you. :)

I have a lot to do before I decide what ratio but I might try 4.3 first,

If i’m not happy I will just change to 4.1

There’s always stock for a GTR diff and rear shafts so il be fine if I need to get hold of them 

I have about 4 months to decide so il consider the 4.1 
 
If I go 4.1, Which would be the best diff to go for from the GTR’s? An R33?
 
I have Cusco diffs in mine. They're tight as anything. 1 way in the front and 1.5 in the back. They seem to do the job well.
  • Like 1

The consensus is that the best front diff is Quaiffe and the best rear diff is either another Quaiffe (for a streeter) or a Nismo pro.

There are always votes for the other brands, as per Steve above, and they are valid.  But I have a soft spot for how nicely helical diffs drive compared to tight mechanicals.

  • Like 1
13 hours ago, Steve85 said:
14 hours ago, R34GTRSilver said:
I have about 4 months to decide so il consider the 4.1 
 
If I go 4.1, Which would be the best diff to go for from the GTR’s? An R33?
 

I have Cusco diffs in mine. They're tight as anything. 1 way in the front and 1.5 in the back. They seem to do the job well.

Okay thanks, so for say the front diff, i can order an R33 GTR front diff and itll go in my 4.1 from the NEO Turbo 4wd engine or do i need to go for a stagea front 4wd diff fitment?

Rear isn't a problem as iv seen many options for that

Its the front that seems confusing.

The engine i'm buying is just down as an RB25DET Neo 4wd.. doesn't say if its from an R34 or Stagea.. I take it both diffs for the front are the same for them, just not sure if the GTR front diff internals will go in there

10 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The consensus is that the best front diff is Quaiffe and the best rear diff is either another Quaiffe (for a streeter) or a Nismo pro.

There are always votes for the other brands, as per Steve above, and they are valid.  But I have a soft spot for how nicely helical diffs drive compared to tight mechanicals.

Iv heard of Quaiffe but don't know much about them. I take it they specialize in Helical diff's.

I was going to leave the front diff stock to begin with anyway whether its 4.1 or 4.3, but the Rear i was going to upgrade 100% 

Il have a look at the Quaiffes and have a read up

45 minutes ago, R34GTRSilver said:

Okay thanks, so for say the front diff, i can order an R33 GTR front diff and itll go in my 4.1 from the NEO Turbo 4wd engine or do i need to go for a stagea front 4wd diff fitment?

Rear isn't a problem as iv seen many options for that

Its the front that seems confusing.

The engine i'm buying is just down as an RB25DET Neo 4wd.. doesn't say if its from an R34 or Stagea.. I take it both diffs for the front are the same for them, just not sure if the GTR front diff internals will go in there

The truth here is i don't actually know if the GT-4 is the same mechanical setup at as GTR. 
This is where my knowledge starts to run out. At the risk of being an internet jerk, see if you can search here for the data. 

Surely someone else has done something similar before. (crosses fingers on ambiguous advice). :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...