Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone here used the nolathane rear subframe bushes that install into the factory casings, like: http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=49155

If so how did you install the spacers and what did you think?

 

I installed these as per the first install guide on that page (Both the large and small spacers above the subframe) but it still squirms around under power (feels like wheels are moving around and changing direction under the chassis) and axle tramps. It's got hicus locked and replaced inner rods, the rest of the bushes have been checked and found nothing too concerning. I'm at a loss to what could be causing it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475650-r32-gtr-rear-subframe-bushes/
Share on other sites

Firstly, no-one still uses Nolathane anything.  I'm not saying that they are outright inferior with respect to how much additional stiffness they will add around your subframe when freshly installed....but everyone else moved on to SuperPro and other options about 20 years ago.

Secondly, if you have old f**ked out bushes and other bushes etc (the outer ends of the HICAS tie rods are a known death spot) in the rear end, trying to bandaid the subframe location won't do a lot.  Solid (alloy) collars are more effective, if pretty harsh.

You haven't mentioned wheel alignment settings, ride height, or even which chassis we're talking about.  If it's an R32, a lot of flailing around can be expected.  if an R34, we'd expect less (due to the improvements in the rear geometry between the two).

I not the biggest fan of any nolathane/poly type bushes but it was easy to install without removing the whole subframe and Nolathane was the fastest available option in NZ. It previously had some blue bushes that had disintegrated which I assumed were superpro (so didn't want to get them again).

It could quite possibly be a combination of a lot of old bushes, but I didn't want to just chase bushes randomly (will do the lot if I can't track down the issue though). The bushes have been checked over multiple times looking for anything with excess play, unfortunately it's near impossible to recreate the acceleration force on the hoist. It seems most people who are getting axle tramp issues are told to check/replace the subframe bushes.

I've just brought alloy subframe locker collars and tried fitting but appears they don't work correctly with the nolathane bushes. Outer hicus do have minor play so i'll replace those while the ass end is in bits.

R32 GTR, coilovers (fairly low), whiteline front and rear sway bars/links, alignment set by a shop who was recommended for performance cars.

Also, the way it drives currently is definitely not normal. You can literally feel the rear wheels shifting/turning about and feels like the car crabs down the road. this could be the hicus outers which will be replaced. 

Wondering if anyone has used any subframe spacers and installed as per that first guideline (spacers above he subframe), whiteline appear to install there version of spacers below the subframe: https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z203.pdf

The Whiteline and Nolathane bushes are 2 totally different animals. The Nolathane units replace the factory bushes that locate the subframe to the chassis. The Whiteline are the "pineapples" you'll see referred to in many posts.

13 hours ago, WantGTR said:

I have pineapples in my car. Good mod for 100 bux. Do it.

But once your subframe bushes are that cooked, the pineapples don't do much anymore. 

Ask me how I know lol

27 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But once your subframe bushes are that cooked, the pineapples don't do much anymore. 

Ask me how I know lol

Rear subframe will come out when I stop f**king around at the front of the car lol. Until then - pineapple bitches.

I'm pretty sure that that Nolathane kit has the equivalent of pineapples already (plus the main bush replacements).  I strongly suggest that if this bush kit has been installed and the back of the car feels like it is flailing around, then something else is wrong (or the kit/subframe has been installed incorrectly).

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...