Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, 

I have recently purchased a 91 gts-t, I was told that it had a rb25 block and a rb20 head. The block has a cast number of 08U. If someone could help me identify this block and maybe tell me where to look for identifying numbers for the head I would be in your debt.

Thanks.

Edited by Vicariousness
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475751-trying-to-identify-my-block/
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

R33 and R34 vct blocks are 75T .   I read somewhere, can't remember where, so don't lay money on it, that R32 RB25n/a blocks had 08U marking.

So it might be a rb25de? Well it has a big turbo and allot of other upgrades, I read that wasn't good for that engine.

2 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Does it run good? What fuel are you using? Do you not beleive previous owner for some reason?

It runs great, pulls hard and boost great. Hits 1.1 bar. I use 94 in it. I am just trying to verify the engine. Really wanna know for future mods and for knowledge of the car. As I have only the knowledge of what I have been told and that cast number is the only way I know of identifying it. And I haven't found a solid answer anywhere on what engine it is.

Edited by Vicariousness
  • 10 months later...
  • 2 months later...
On 12/1/2019 at 8:10 AM, Gabgio Tez said:

Cylinder Head Identification for RB engines

CylinderHeadIDALLRBNigelNewalloSingh.png

what is your source on this information? do the RPO codes also translate to the blocks for those models. if not does the source provide a similar graph for the block identification 

1 hour ago, Rusty Nuts said:

The source is this very forum. Iruvyouskyrine put up the information January 

Good good, I shall keep digging and reshape the information back to this thread so as others who come across it wont need to do the digging ( that is if someone doesn't beat me to it )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
    • Being a race car, and being in the era of the Arduino, one would think it would take little effort to build a controller to do the spraying based on a real physical measurment. Waaaaay back in the dim dark AS days, JE "designed" (as in, he had help) a microcontroller based intercooler spray system. It watched the difference between a temp sensor stuck on the core and one in the free air in front of the cooler, and if the temperature difference exceeded a (settable) threshold, it would activate the sprays. Thus, it only ran water when there was an actual need for water. If you stop to think about the actual physical things that are going on in that stack of coolers, there's probably at least a couple of triggering conditions one could come up with, and one could probably even run one pump with more than one solenoid valve, to allow water to be placed where it is needed, or at all points at once (if it is needed at all points). We're in the age of science baby. But.... I suspect that intercooler water sprays are on the forbidden list in most circuit classes, no? So only good for Targa type stuff?
    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
×
×
  • Create New...