Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently had a friend replace the busted rubber inner LCA bushings on my car with superpro polyurethane ones...The old bushings just fell out, leaving only the metal cylinder piece behind. After pressing out the that piece on the first arm, the new bushing was loose in the hole (Think the part he used to press it was slightly too big, used a different piece for the other arm and the bushing fit well) so he machined some nylon stoppers to place on each side so the bushings couldn't slide out. Is this going to be an issue or was it a decent DIY solution?

I know I need a wheel alignment, can anyone recommend an affordable/reliable place in Perth other than Pedders?

Also my tyres are badly worn from being out of alignment I'm assuming so I will need to replace them before I can get the alignment. My tyres read 235/35A19 91W - see pic, I need the cheapest replacements possible, any suggestions on tyre stores? Would it cost much more to just go for 4 new wheels so I can go 17 or 18" rims and have a bit more cushioning?

Thanks ?

Yes do not go to Pedders - sorry apart from that have no knowledge of Perth scene. And yes you would be wasting your money getting an alignment with badly worn tyres. Wait til you have the new ones. Smaller wheels would be more comfortable and tyres probably cheaper as well. If you have some nice 19s you may be able to get a good deal from someone wanting to upsize!

16 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Yes do not go to Pedders - sorry apart from that have no knowledge of Perth scene. And yes you would be wasting your money getting an alignment with badly worn tyres. Wait til you have the new ones. Smaller wheels would be more comfortable and tyres probably cheaper as well. If you have some nice 19s you may be able to get a good deal from someone wanting to upsize!

Thanks for the reply, Yeah heard they're not the best option, I'll have a google and call around and get some quotes. Yeah might try put an ad up on gumtree for a swap...would really prefer more tyre than rim, it's just smashing the suspension.

6 hours ago, Neurotic said:

Hey guys,

I recently had a friend replace the busted rubber inner LCA bushings on my car with superpro polyurethane ones...The old bushings just fell out, leaving only the metal cylinder piece behind. After pressing out the that piece on the first arm, the new bushing was loose in the hole (Think the part he used to press it was slightly too big, used a different piece for the other arm and the bushing fit well) so he machined some nylon stoppers to place on each side so the bushings couldn't slide out. Is this going to be an issue or was it a decent DIY solution?

I know I need a wheel alignment, can anyone recommend an affordable/reliable place in Perth other than Pedders?

Also my tyres are badly worn from being out of alignment I'm assuming so I will need to replace them before I can get the alignment. My tyres read 235/35R19 91W - see pic, I need the cheapest replacements possible, any suggestions on tyre stores? Would it cost much more to just go for 4 new wheels so I can go 17 or 18" rims and have a bit more cushioning?

Thanks ?

 

19 hours ago, Neurotic said:

 

 

19 hours ago, Neurotic said:

Thanks for the reply, Yeah heard they're not the best option, I'll have a google and call around and get some quotes. Yeah might try put an ad up on gumtree for a swap...would really prefer more tyre than rim, it's just smashing the suspension.

Precise Suspensions & Automotive in wangara or W.A. Suspensions in osborne park

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...