Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

17 minutes ago, drifter17a said:

Can’t be asked now as it is all back together but should have video it

 

how would two negative run a pump?

Of course they don't. NEO25T's high tech diagram explains it perfectly. The pump is run from the power from the battery positive which flows from terminal 30 to 87, through the pump and back to earth...when the relay is activated by the power coming from the ignition source through 85 to 86 (or the other way round as you will have discovered it matters little) and then to the ECU where it is earthed as with most things connected to the ECU.

BTW the best place for a fuse is between the battery and  #30

9 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Of course they don't. NEO25T's high tech diagram explains it perfectly. The pump is run from the power from the battery positive which flows from terminal 30 to 87, through the pump and back to earth...when the relay is activated by the power coming from the ignition source through 85 to 86 (or the other way round as you will have discovered it matters little) and then to the ECU where it is earthed as with most things connected to the ECU.

BTW the best place for a fuse is between the battery and  #30

 

Well explained so what happens when power from ecu goes then you are missing one of the sources needed( positive or negative) right?

 

if you do then it shouldn’t matter if you have a permanent ground or ecu ground

7 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

 

BTW the best place for a fuse is between the battery and  #30

My battery to #30 cable is 00 gauge and heavy insulated, bit overkill for 2 walbro pumps but at least its there for if i decide to relocate the battery later. 

In this case, like most cases bigger is always better ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...