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Cut the sump and Luke laffan welded it up for me. Moved the pickup to the centre of the pan and have the whole oiling system and parts sorted.

Luke is building a 142 rally car, some of you may have seen it on the Facebook pages. it is going to be incredible!

 

 

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On 14/09/2019 at 4:29 PM, skylinecouple said:

So what's happening. You pulled your teeth out ready for a gummy then stopped. What a tease !!

Things have been moving along, just slowly :)

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Engine mounts are done, just need to be trimmed and painted. 

 

And started on the wire tuck. Not finished yet, but it's coming together slowly. 

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So quite a lot has happened since I last posted.

I've finished the wiring in the engine bay. The engine and car are still on separate looms so the engine setup can be put into something else or the car can have a B20 put back in very easily.

I've also started on the interior wiring where all of the cars wiring is now tucked out of the way ready for the corollas looms to be put in. But i'll probably test start the engine before that.

After doing all the front end wiring i chucked a battery in and i couldn't get anything to work.. No lights, no power, nothing... After thinking of the worst things possible i moved the ground and everything lit up! I was about ready to burn the thing to the ground.

 

 

The oil system is finished. I tried to make a neat package that is hidden and not a total mess. The setup is very modular and free flowing. The cooler is placed just behind the air intake on the bottom lip, so it is also functional and it will put a little more weight over the front end.

I'm a bit worried about the weight, if all the numbers on the internet are true ill be way too light in the front, and there isn't much that can be taken from the rear, the boot can be skinned and things like brackets etc can come off but there isn't much else. I came up with a 40/60 split taking into account all the weights i've found online for the 142.. I really need to corner weight the car to see exactly what it is.

 

Made a new belt and pulley system. I got a 6 rib pulley for the tensioner arm. Most people will use an idler off to the left, but i've got a steering box there.

 

Plenum is now finished. I used a 4g63 plenum and cut and modified it to fit on the 2zz flange and throttle body. I chose this plenum and it matches up with the 2zz fairly well, has bellmouths for each runner, the shape, and it's not absolutely massive like others. Everything follows another line so it looks like it's meant to be there.

 

The only other thing to do is to fill it with oil. Do the fuel lines. Plug everything in and start it.

I'm a bit anxious about it because I've done so much wiring on the engine and haven't even plugged it in to make sure it all works.

 

 

 

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As I've said a few times mate, I really love this build!
Done with heart, in the back of a shed, and so nice and neatly too!

It'll be a ripper of a little unit when you get it complete very soon!

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On 14/06/2020 at 8:16 AM, Trex said:

I'm a bit worried about the weight, if all the numbers on the internet are true ill be way too light in the front, and there isn't much that can be taken from the rear, the boot can be skinned and things like brackets etc can come off but there isn't much else. I came up with a 40/60 split taking into account all the weights i've found online for the 142.. I really need to corner weight the car to see exactly what it is.

One solution to balance the weight is to strap a Promod 88 to the side. 

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4 hours ago, Count Grantleyish said:

One solution to balance the weight is to strap a Promod 88 to the side. 

Replace with a RB25 boat anchor ol

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10 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Replace with a RB25 boat anchor ol

That is also excellent suggestion. 

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Brilliant build !

Dam!  I love this style of old ovloV ! 

Im still tryin to get a guy I know to part with his 242 GT !

But the bugger wont budge. Grrrrrrrrr .

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So now the engine runs. The manifold and downpipe can be welded properly. The flange on the plenum is a little warped, hence the rough running, so ill flatten that. Thats pretty much the engine complete.

This pandemic has made it hard to order parts, you really need to be careful where you order things from and make sure theyre in stock... Waiting months for parts is pretty frustrating.

 

 

The engine bay and interior loom still needs a few hours of cutting and de pinning. I'll wait till its running and driving before i complete it as i still need a speed signal for lift to engage.

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I'm currently working on the getrag 250g.

 

clutch- The getrag uses a 228mm clutch disc while the 2zz flywheel and pressure plate are setup for a 212-216mm disc. I got a bmw e30 clutch disc which is 212x8.5 and a 10 spline input. and it works perfectly! The best part about this is, there are plenty 10 spline clutches in different configurations that are the same dimensions.

 

The pivot ball, release bearing shaft, and slave cylinder pushrod needs to be moved outward.

To make the fork parallel to the bearing and clutch fingers a 15mm spacer needs to me made for the release bearing shaft. This will ensure the bearing is parallel when disengaging the clutch and not binding.

The pivot ball is a little plastic cone with inbuilt fork clip. Matt from the development labs (check out his abandoned and submerged r33 race car he is rescuing) came over as he was in town and helped on the build the last few nights. He has drawn me up a cad drawing to make an extension which will be stackable depending on what pressure plate i may change to down the track.

The pushrod is just some allthread with a dome cap on the end. For the standard clutch and pressure plate this is fine, but if i do eventually change to a stronger pressure plate this will have to be revised.

 

The pilot bearing is a holden 304/308 item which gives the snout of the getrag 12.8mm of engagement into the back of the crank.

 

The belhousing to block will need to be doweled. The standard tolerance for runout of the clutch is 0.1mm. noting that the 2zz spins at 8500rpm, im not really willing to have anymore than that.. I'll also be using a scatter blanket just incase that input shaft decides it wants to let go.

 

I had a bit of a look at the bolt situation for the belhousing to block. I can see about 6 possible spots to easily connect them together, more if i make brackets.

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Done.

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