Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My tuner also recommended I replace all the vacuum lines as well. Is there a site that sells direct replacements or perhaps a hose size chart for all the lines? I noticed on the drive home on slight occasions the steering wheel would vibrate, my buddy thinks it’s probably the rotors, thoughts

8 minutes ago, tridentt150v said:

Bingo!!!!

If you have coil overs and the car is down to the legal limit [100mm I think] then you will likely need adjustable uppers to get the alignment right.  Most [including mine] do.

And yes I’m on fortune auto 500 coilovers down 100% given my wheel size. Was hoping it would’ve been rotors given it’s much cheaper. But it is what it is. 

Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS.

Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

Edited by GTSBoy
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS.

Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

 

 

they even made a video how to. Nice. 

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS.

Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

Is the hardened rubber pieces make the ride uncomfortable?

No. The steel on steel spherical joints make life uncomfortable. They also tend to wear and are not really the best option for a street car. The hard rubber bushes are not any rougher than polyurethane, which used to be my standard choice, but poly has its own issues.

You will note that I am being hypocritical here. The GKTech FUCAs have 3(!) spherical joints on each (in fact, they actually have 5 because there's another pair inside the big end). I have had trouble with these wearing on my car, but as it turns out, not as much trouble as I thought. That's a whole other issue. Anyway, the point is that I am prepared to put up with some sphericals on my (street) car, but not prepared to put them everywhere and turn the NVH up to 11 everywhere.

2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No. The steel on steel spherical joints make life uncomfortable. They also tend to wear and are not really the best option for a street car. The hard rubber bushes are not any rougher than polyurethane, which used to be my standard choice, but poly has its own issues.

You will note that I am being hypocritical here. The GKTech FUCAs have 3(!) spherical joints on each (in fact, they actually have 5 because there's another pair inside the big end). I have had trouble with these wearing on my car, but as it turns out, not as much trouble as I thought. That's a whole other issue. Anyway, the point is that I am prepared to put up with some sphericals on my (street) car, but not prepared to put them everywhere and turn the NVH up to 11 everywhere.

I just wanna keep my current set up while being reliable and not wear through tires every year. Looking at the back you can tell it has the smallest bit of camber, my guess from the coilovers, it’s a very nice look to it while allowing me to be as low as I am. 

You want -0.75° to -1° at the rear. More than that will lead to rapid wear on a street car. At the front, up to 2°, but better at 1.5°. I have been running slightly more camber in the last year than previous, and I can see the wear difference on the inner edges - very clearly.

It's a road driven R32 that has stock arms, just run -0.5 degrees of camber each side. The slightest amount of power and the arse end will squat and the camber will ramp to the moon and back.

Best option is to convert to a S14/15 subframe but with your power goals and tyre wear concern probably money better spent on new bushes, adjustable arms etc.

On 5/21/2019 at 11:49 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It's a road driven R32 that has stock arms, just run -0.5 degrees of camber each side. The slightest amount of power and the arse end will squat and the camber will ramp to the moon and back.

Best option is to convert to a S14/15 subframe but with your power goals and tyre wear concern probably money better spent on new bushes, adjustable arms etc.

This is the amount of camber it has currently

67A3E5A3-170C-438E-BD44-65BF527931AB.jpeg

94FD0381-5A6A-4512-B838-1BAACFA93184.jpeg

D1E4E222-1E9E-4B2D-A6BA-CF0B30EA663E.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...