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My tuner also recommended I replace all the vacuum lines as well. Is there a site that sells direct replacements or perhaps a hose size chart for all the lines? I noticed on the drive home on slight occasions the steering wheel would vibrate, my buddy thinks it’s probably the rotors, thoughts

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2 hours ago, tridentt150v said:

Get a wheel balance and alignment first.

Why replace the vacuum lines??? have they gone hard with age?  Are they splitting all the time?

Took a peek at the tire tread and I have good tire wear on the inside of all four tires. 

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8 minutes ago, tridentt150v said:

Bingo!!!!

If you have coil overs and the car is down to the legal limit [100mm I think] then you will likely need adjustable uppers to get the alignment right.  Most [including mine] do.

And yes I’m on fortune auto 500 coilovers down 100% given my wheel size. Was hoping it would’ve been rotors given it’s much cheaper. But it is what it is. 

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4 minutes ago, tridentt150v said:

Or go back to std suspension......ie do it right or not at all

I’m all for doing it right the first time. The car came on coilovers but were apexi N1 ones that were severely blown out. Got a link to the adjustable uppers??

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Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS.

Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

Edited by GTSBoy
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS.

Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

 

 

they even made a video how to. Nice. 

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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Buy FUCAs for R32 from GKTech (they are very good, but fiddly). Other option is the ones from UAS which recently had a group buy - I think someone is selling an older set (unused) on these very forums. I have both. Currently have the UAS ones on the car. I would not use anything else. All other available adjustable FUCAs for R32s are riddled with ball cancer and AIDS.

Buy GKTech upper CAs and traction arms for the rear. Or Hardrace. Best to get the rubber bushed Hardrace ones. GKTech only have spherical jointed options which are quite harsh and a lot less legal. Note that setting up and correctly adjusting rear uppers and traction rods is not as trivial as it looks. Search "bump steer".

Is the hardened rubber pieces make the ride uncomfortable?

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No. The steel on steel spherical joints make life uncomfortable. They also tend to wear and are not really the best option for a street car. The hard rubber bushes are not any rougher than polyurethane, which used to be my standard choice, but poly has its own issues.

You will note that I am being hypocritical here. The GKTech FUCAs have 3(!) spherical joints on each (in fact, they actually have 5 because there's another pair inside the big end). I have had trouble with these wearing on my car, but as it turns out, not as much trouble as I thought. That's a whole other issue. Anyway, the point is that I am prepared to put up with some sphericals on my (street) car, but not prepared to put them everywhere and turn the NVH up to 11 everywhere.

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2 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

No. The steel on steel spherical joints make life uncomfortable. They also tend to wear and are not really the best option for a street car. The hard rubber bushes are not any rougher than polyurethane, which used to be my standard choice, but poly has its own issues.

You will note that I am being hypocritical here. The GKTech FUCAs have 3(!) spherical joints on each (in fact, they actually have 5 because there's another pair inside the big end). I have had trouble with these wearing on my car, but as it turns out, not as much trouble as I thought. That's a whole other issue. Anyway, the point is that I am prepared to put up with some sphericals on my (street) car, but not prepared to put them everywhere and turn the NVH up to 11 everywhere.

I just wanna keep my current set up while being reliable and not wear through tires every year. Looking at the back you can tell it has the smallest bit of camber, my guess from the coilovers, it’s a very nice look to it while allowing me to be as low as I am. 

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You want -0.75° to -1° at the rear. More than that will lead to rapid wear on a street car. At the front, up to 2°, but better at 1.5°. I have been running slightly more camber in the last year than previous, and I can see the wear difference on the inner edges - very clearly.

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It's a road driven R32 that has stock arms, just run -0.5 degrees of camber each side. The slightest amount of power and the arse end will squat and the camber will ramp to the moon and back.

Best option is to convert to a S14/15 subframe but with your power goals and tyre wear concern probably money better spent on new bushes, adjustable arms etc.

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On 5/21/2019 at 11:49 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

It's a road driven R32 that has stock arms, just run -0.5 degrees of camber each side. The slightest amount of power and the arse end will squat and the camber will ramp to the moon and back.

Best option is to convert to a S14/15 subframe but with your power goals and tyre wear concern probably money better spent on new bushes, adjustable arms etc.

This is the amount of camber it has currently

67A3E5A3-170C-438E-BD44-65BF527931AB.jpeg

94FD0381-5A6A-4512-B838-1BAACFA93184.jpeg

D1E4E222-1E9E-4B2D-A6BA-CF0B30EA663E.jpeg

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