Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET misfire under load/boost

BASHERnissan
 Share

Recommended Posts

BASHERnissan Contributor

BASHERnissan

Posted
Posted

I recently bought an R33 gtst with series 2 RB25DET. I turned the boost down on my manual boost controller when I gave it an oil change now whenever It hits boost or even half throttle it will misfire and WON'T STOP at all... Check engine came on after oil change

Has link g4 440 injectors bigger turbo 42mm wastgate and straight pipe... Tuned to 240kw on 15 psi

Changing coil packs and sparks this week.. any help appreciated thanks 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477087-rb25det-misfire-under-loadboost/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Splitfires are not expensive now. They are the same price as they have ever been, possibly cheaper in real terms. They are still the cheapest & easiest way to do a coil upgrade.

They are, however, not really any different in terms of performance & quality than the original Nissan ones, which have been popping up here and there over the last few years. The problem with buying "OEM" ones is that they are probably easier to counterfeit.

The smart approach these days is to replace with a modern pencil coil. Your choices are to buy a kit that uses Toyota/Denso coils (such as Yaris, or any of the 1ZZ tyes) and necessary wiring adaptation & mounting bracket, or to buy Nissan type (R35 GTR, VQ370 types) and the necessary stalk adapters and mounting plate. The Toyota options are cheaper as kits. The easiest/best Nissan options will cost you over $1k, but are the absolutely f**king duck's nuts in terms of performance capability, for a coil that can fit in the factory spot.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Thanks 1
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, BASHERnissan said:

Split fires are so expensive wow

 

Not really, $600-odd for bolt in is good. When you compare it to cheapo red/yellow ones, yes, but they're on par with OEM and cheaper than the R35 route.

 

In the mean time, gap your spark plugs to 0.7mm and see if that makes a difference.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Dead coil packs affect the whole range....not just higher up.  Red is dead, Blue is true.

If you don't believe us, take the coils and get them tested.

Otherwise take it to a workshop and get their input.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...