Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTR no sparks

bigboss59400

By bigboss59400,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

bigboss59400 Community Regular

bigboss59400

Posted
Posted

Hello,

So I bought a relatively stock R34 GTR and after 500kms (all was working fine) the engine just shutdown on the highway.

The engine is cranking but refuse to start again.

 

So in the correct order, I checked using the supplement service manual:

-no engine light at any moment

-fuel pump (I can hear it when I switch on the key and the fuel pipe gets hard)

-checked all the fuses next to the throttle pedal and also in the engine bay

-self diagnostic give me error 55 (so no malfunction)

-I have 12V to the coil ignition on the power pin of this coil

-I don't have an oscilloscope however when cranking the engine I must see like 0.06V to 0.09V on the command of the coil ignition using a multimeter but I got 0v on each command of the spark plug

-wiring of the ignition coil is okay (continuity test)

-There was an aftermarket ignition control box (adic siccle advanced ignition control) connected to the ECM; so I removed it however after doing so I got error 20 ? (the orignal hairness seems to be intact !)

-I open the ECM but didn't find anything bad (bad soldering, blow components ...)

 

So this investigation supposed that the ECM is not working properly ?!

 

Question :

-what is error code 20 ?

-if the ECM is working fine; what are the causes that avoid it to command the ignition coils ?

 

There is also an aftermarket alarm I normally desarm it (using the key fob) code alarm PF7600 I don't think there is a relation to my problem but I mention this.

 

Thanks for any hint

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477754-r34-gtr-no-sparks/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

There is no ECU code 20 for GTRs, unless they've added some secret sauce to the R34 that wasn't in the earlier ones. (although 21 is the ignition circuit.....you sure you got 20 and not 21?)

A multimeter cannot be substituted for an oscilloscope unless you're looking for a steady voltage. They are not fast enough to see brief signals.

I would say the ADIC is responsible. You'd best base your research around it.

 

Edited by GTSBoy
bigboss59400 Community Regular

bigboss59400

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

My GTR was build in 08/1999

Well I'm sure it's 20; two long blink followed by a pause of like 5 seconds and then again 2 long blink.

Yes I know for the multimeter but that's only what I've got for the moment...but I should see at least some variation on the voltage which is not the case; I measured 0V continuously. I will borrow a scope and try again.

 

I don't get any information on the ADIC :/

Like I said before removing it I got 55 and after removing it I got 20

 

Can you elaborate choyda ?

 

Thanks for the help I really appreciated it

Edited by bigboss59400
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

CAS is the thing on the end of the camshaft that tells the ecu when to fire the plugs and injectors. If you are going to take it off and haven't got a timing light mark it carefully so you that if its ok you can put it back in exactly the same position. Turn it by hand to feel if the bearings are stuffed. With the key on turn it and see if it fires the plugs (maybe pull one out and look for a spark (making sure it has a good earth). If it does look inside the cas and the end of the cam shaft to see if the drive has been damaged.

bigboss59400 Community Regular

bigboss59400

Posted
  • Author
Posted
21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, because there are no codes ending in zero.....

I didn't noticed that thanks!

22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And ref the root cause - probably ground the drive off the end of the cam, by the looks of all them chips in there. 

Okay I will remove sensor and see

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
On 7/15/2019 at 3:20 AM, bigboss59400 said:

Just for information I found some on aliexpress

They look OEM I will buy and see

Thanks for all

There are basically two - one with plastic cap like yours Hitachi 2371 5L 300

The other one is a Mitsubishi with metal cap 2371 02U11 which will not work.

Have a look at the end of the camshaft and see if the drive appears to be damaged.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...