Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

So I bought a relatively stock R34 GTR and after 500kms (all was working fine) the engine just shutdown on the highway.

The engine is cranking but refuse to start again.

 

So in the correct order, I checked using the supplement service manual:

-no engine light at any moment

-fuel pump (I can hear it when I switch on the key and the fuel pipe gets hard)

-checked all the fuses next to the throttle pedal and also in the engine bay

-self diagnostic give me error 55 (so no malfunction)

-I have 12V to the coil ignition on the power pin of this coil

-I don't have an oscilloscope however when cranking the engine I must see like 0.06V to 0.09V on the command of the coil ignition using a multimeter but I got 0v on each command of the spark plug

-wiring of the ignition coil is okay (continuity test)

-There was an aftermarket ignition control box (adic siccle advanced ignition control) connected to the ECM; so I removed it however after doing so I got error 20 ? (the orignal hairness seems to be intact !)

-I open the ECM but didn't find anything bad (bad soldering, blow components ...)

 

So this investigation supposed that the ECM is not working properly ?!

 

Question :

-what is error code 20 ?

-if the ECM is working fine; what are the causes that avoid it to command the ignition coils ?

 

There is also an aftermarket alarm I normally desarm it (using the key fob) code alarm PF7600 I don't think there is a relation to my problem but I mention this.

 

Thanks for any hint

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477754-r34-gtr-no-sparks/
Share on other sites

There is no ECU code 20 for GTRs, unless they've added some secret sauce to the R34 that wasn't in the earlier ones. (although 21 is the ignition circuit.....you sure you got 20 and not 21?)

A multimeter cannot be substituted for an oscilloscope unless you're looking for a steady voltage. They are not fast enough to see brief signals.

I would say the ADIC is responsible. You'd best base your research around it.

 

Edited by GTSBoy

My GTR was build in 08/1999

Well I'm sure it's 20; two long blink followed by a pause of like 5 seconds and then again 2 long blink.

Yes I know for the multimeter but that's only what I've got for the moment...but I should see at least some variation on the voltage which is not the case; I measured 0V continuously. I will borrow a scope and try again.

 

I don't get any information on the ADIC :/

Like I said before removing it I got 55 and after removing it I got 20

 

Can you elaborate choyda ?

 

Thanks for the help I really appreciated it

Edited by bigboss59400

CAS is the thing on the end of the camshaft that tells the ecu when to fire the plugs and injectors. If you are going to take it off and haven't got a timing light mark it carefully so you that if its ok you can put it back in exactly the same position. Turn it by hand to feel if the bearings are stuffed. With the key on turn it and see if it fires the plugs (maybe pull one out and look for a spark (making sure it has a good earth). If it does look inside the cas and the end of the cam shaft to see if the drive has been damaged.

21 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Yes, because there are no codes ending in zero.....

I didn't noticed that thanks!

22 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

And ref the root cause - probably ground the drive off the end of the cam, by the looks of all them chips in there. 

Okay I will remove sensor and see

On 7/15/2019 at 3:20 AM, bigboss59400 said:

Just for information I found some on aliexpress

They look OEM I will buy and see

Thanks for all

There are basically two - one with plastic cap like yours Hitachi 2371 5L 300

The other one is a Mitsubishi with metal cap 2371 02U11 which will not work.

Have a look at the end of the camshaft and see if the drive appears to be damaged.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...