Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone. Hope you all are doing well.

I have been working on my RB25DET for a while. It has a Freddy FFP and an TB adapter to keep the original TB.

I am now making a new intercooler piping for it to put on a larger TB and remove the adapter. It would look a little bit more legit without that adapter.

 

Here comes the 1st question. Can I remove the IAC PIPING?

By that I would like to know if the IAC can suck air from atmosphere directly, not from the intake piping and after the MAF? Of course I will fit on an filter if I can delete it.

I am asking because by deleting IAC PIPING can make the intercooler piping look better and make the engine bay a little more legit.

The ECU is PFC, if it matters.

 

 

The next question is about the boost reference for the boost controller.

It was from the intercooler piping, between TB and intercooler. I wonder if I can use the manifold pressure (from a nozzle on the manifold) as the boost reference provided to the boost controller and waste gate?

The boost controller is Apexi AVC-R and the waste gate is an internal one with an 1bar actuator.

 

Thank you all again.

 

14 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

No, and no.

Thanks for answering.

Can I ask why it is no for the second question? What is the difference between manifold pressure and piping pressure?

Cheers

17 hours ago, Michael33 said:

What is the difference between manifold pressure and piping pressure?

 

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

One of them is after the throttle. Boost controllers get plumbed in before the throttle.

I've written thousands of words on the reason on these forums before. Hooking it up to the manifold is a good way to make the turbo work way harder than it has to under part throttle operation. On some turbos, this could actually lead to overspeed failure. At least it will lead to higher EMP than is necessary.

8 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

 

I've written thousands of words on the reason on these forums before. Hooking it up to the manifold is a good way to make the turbo work way harder than it has to under part throttle operation. On some turbos, this could actually lead to overspeed failure. At least it will lead to higher EMP than is necessary.

Thanks. That's very helpful. I will just hook it before the throttle.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...