Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

First post here but I have a 1990 R32 GTR with a small power steering leak coming from the high pressure hose leading out of the power steering pump. I had the PS fluid flushed and replaced earlier this year and this leak seems to have developed within the last few months. The car drives fine and doesn't make any strange noises but will leave a few drops on the floor after turning into a parking spot. I got under the car and identified where the leak is coming from as shown in the photo here (the dark streak on the left is the dribble of PS fluid from where the hose meets the metal fitting). 797251782_WeChatImage_20190909171832.thumb.jpg.3d667d5d508af8d269cd3077ee213182.jpgI've attached another image of the part and the leak area circled in red.   

49720-05U20_1024x1024_LI.jpg.632ae98583e59863819bd1068290d834.jpg

My question is, would it be possible to tighten the metal fitting to stop the leak and if so, how would I go about it? Second, I don't mind buying the whole high pressure PS assembly pictured and swapping it all out as a preventative measure (as I can't find the rubber hose/metal fitting alone), but would this be something that can be done just by getting under the car or would the engine/large components need to be removed first? Thanks for any insight you may have!

Edited by nouveau_poor
rewording
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478626-r32-gtr-power-steering-leak/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. I read somewhere else something about a crush washer deteriorating over time leading to a leak but that might not be applicable to the fitting in question. If the swap can be done without removing the engine or major parts I'll do it myself or ask my mechanic. In the meantime, has anyone had luck using power steering additives to stop small leaks like this?

Well I'll go ahead and order the assembly if the rubber hose can't be saved. Hopefully replacement isn't too difficult and labor costs aren't too high. I don't enjoy having to top off my PS fluid all the time. I'll try to keep the thread updated when I get around to installing.

You could just remove the assembly and take it to a hydraulic hose shop and they could put on a new bit of hose in a few minutes. Obviously you would discuss this with them in advance and show them the picture and book a time to walk it in....

But it would save you the arse raping that you'll probably have to endure to buy the whole thing.

  • Like 2

Hydraulic shop, Enzed, Pirtek...they will make it while you look on in amazement.  Take about 15 minutes....ie a hellava lot quicker than you when you have to remove and refit it, that will take you half a day and skun knuckles.

That's some good advice about the hydraulics shop, I'll keep it on my radar. It does sound a lot less painful to just fix the rubber itself. A local shop is selling the whole pipe for a tad less than from Nissan so I was thinking that replacing it all with OEM would be good for the long run. Is the rubber hose alone removed from where it meets the hard line by the first metal plate/bracket? If so, I'm surprised that Nissan doesn't sell the hose alone if the whole pipe can be disassembled like that.

11 hours ago, nouveau_poor said:

If so, I'm surprised that Nissan doesn't sell the hose alone if the whole pipe can be disassembled like that.

The hose is crimped onto the hardpipe ends. It's non-trivial to remove and refit.....unless you're at a hydraulics place.

  • 2 weeks later...

So an update as promised. I ended up going the full assembly route as i figure it's long-term insurance and I would have had to pay someone to remove the old assembly anyway and so the price difference between a repaired hose +install and a new OEM part + install was worth it to me. I took a peek under the car beforehand to see if I could remove and reinstall myself but could not for the life of me find a straightforward way to weave the bends and everything around the steering rack. Dropped it off at my usual shop for a day and got it back a bit ago. No leaks (as one would hope) and I don't think they had to remove neighboring bits to do it. Not sure what kind of witchcraft they used but it went in the same way the old one did. Ideally it should be good now for another 30 years right? Pictures of it snaking around below:

1801682646_WeChatImage_20190923141424.thumb.jpg.472dd04c4c0e42069b242f72311d99b3.jpg

584147206_WeChatImage_20190923141527.thumb.jpg.438a0444e064d48314a1a6fb0c16494a.jpg

It goes behind around all this stuff

1842068626_WeChatImage_20190923141537.thumb.jpg.78f4ee87ccc964f864addca17c97913a.jpg

The switch/plug for the high pressure line 

1556970419_WeChatImage_20190923141544.thumb.jpg.4f619bf996fda8413d8c293d0592df31.jpg

Here you can see the leak flowing down the hose before it turns into hard line again

1722083749_WeChatImage_20190923141608.thumb.jpg.6dc3db7ea5b28a25b14f802e5621d986.jpg

3 pipes go into the power steering rack assembly. The one replaced is the center one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...