Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've read and searched but can't find too many answers as most seem to opt for 1000cc injectors

Basic run down - HKS 2535/550cc KPM Injectors/Walbro 255 pump - 260kw at 18psi now

I never planned on using E85, however plans change :) My plan is just to fill it up with E85 and see where we get with the tuning

Given the turbo hasn't got much left in it, what's people's thought's on this being enough?

They are too small, unless you bump up the base fuel pressure to 4 bar.

You'll need about 35% more fuel flow. Say if you're already at 80~90% DC then you won't have headroom for E85.

You'll be able to get more power out of your setup, as I can imagine you're pretty knock limited on 98RON with that small turbo. Don't expect miracles but a 10~15% gain in power is possible :) 

ID1050x still has a very narrow spray angle, most of the fuel will go straight down the intake divider. Toyota made that work by using air assisted fuel injectors but as far as I know the RB26 has no such system and is much more reliant on the injector itself providing the spray pattern and atomization. Bosch motorsport has the 040 980cc injector which works great, just make sure you get a flow matched set.

  • Like 1
37 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

Bosch motorsport has the 040 980cc injector which works great,

They also don't mind high rail pressure too, at 4bar they become "1150cc" as most retailers advertise them at which is misleading. Just like how plenty of eBay retailers called the Bosch 1550 a 1650cc injector 

  • Like 1

I had 257 kw using 98 fuel: 525cc XSpurt Injectors and 255 LPH Pump at 20~18 PSI.

Told my tuner I just wanted E85 and see what it can do.

Tuner said not enough fuel pumping and had to upgrade to Walbro 416 LPH .

 

End of the day it made 295 kw 21PSI on E85 using 525cc Injectors at 100% duty cycle

 

In my experience, never go weak on fuel. I now have XSpurt 1000cc + 2xBosch 044's in a surge tank, the same 416 pump in the stock tank. Don't limit yourself just to upgrade it again later :D

Edited by statue
  • Like 1
26 minutes ago, statue said:

In my experience, never go weak on fuel. I now have XSpurt 1000cc + 2xBosch 044's in a surge tank, the same 416 pump in the stock tank. Don't limit yourself just to upgrade it again later :D

With the caveat that too much/many pumps leads to fuel heating problems unless you put the effort in to control the pumps properly.

  • 2 weeks later...

Got to 278 without too much hassle, swapped the pump out to a Walbro 460lph unit prior to tuning

As per most E85 results, picked up power and torque everywhere. Still some more left in it if I really wanted to squeeze it, but the tune was done with some upcoming track days so it's reasonably conservative

 

Happy with the results given the basic mods it has

72095395_641766156351874_6274794159706472448_n.jpg

On 10/16/2019 at 2:19 PM, Chris32 said:

Got to 278 without too much hassle, swapped the pump out to a Walbro 460lph unit prior to tuning

As per most E85 results, picked up power and torque everywhere. Still some more left in it if I really wanted to squeeze it, but the tune was done with some upcoming track days so it's reasonably conservative

 

Happy with the results given the basic mods it has

72095395_641766156351874_6274794159706472448_n.jpg

good results, you appear to have very similar mods to my track car so will be interesting to compare, which dyno in Adelaide is this on?

 

On 10/19/2019 at 10:07 AM, mr_rbman said:

good results, you appear to have very similar mods to my track car so will be interesting to compare, which dyno in Adelaide is this on?

 

Boostworx does all my tuning

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...