Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Obviously an expensive ecu is the best option by far but the power fc still gets the job done and has a place.

I been running a power fc with my RB3025 at 350kw for years on dedicated E85, its simple and does the job for those that want a simple solution, cost me $600 and a tune.

Most tuners know a power fc and can tune it easily, i personally like the hand controller to look at knock and check sensors although i know the accuracy maybe not perfect.

Just think cost, elite 2500 is 5 times the cost and for a simple street driven 300kw do you really need bells and whistles.

12 hours ago, AngryRB said:

Obviously an expensive ecu is the best option by far but the power fc still gets the job done and has a place.

I been running a power fc with my RB3025 at 350kw for years on dedicated E85, its simple and does the job for those that want a simple solution, cost me $600 and a tune.

Most tuners know a power fc and can tune it easily, i personally like the hand controller to look at knock and check sensors although i know the accuracy maybe not perfect.

Just think cost, elite 2500 is 5 times the cost and for a simple street driven 300kw do you really need bells and whistles.

definitely valid points comparing power fc to the likes of haltech and link etc but if we try say comparing apples with apples, when it comes to price anyway I think it's pretty hard to go past a Nistune vs a Power Fc... Just my 2c anyway...

 

  • Like 1

You'll be silly to discount a Nistune when it has flex capabilities out of the box, not to mention the option of running a single R35 MAF instead of 2x MAFs, etc. as there's a check box to for you to select from.

Look, if you were given the PowerFC for free then sure why not.. but if you had to go buy something within budget, a PowerFC is silly.

  • 3 weeks later...

I ended up returning the (canceled the order on the FC) and found a couple places here in the US that offered the NIStune. I ordered that and should be here this week. 

My question is. Without having added or done anything besides installing the board onto the ECU and plugging it back into the car. Would I still be able to drive it as normal?

Theoretically, I feel I'd be able to plug it in and still drive the car, but if not I do have the software and the consult cable to be able to see my ECU. 

I dont know how to tune with the NIStune but I have been looking over the website and saw they have various PDFs with tons of info. Basically what I got from it would be just to watch knock and adjust fuel trim since I didnt change anything on my MAFs or injectors and not doing e85. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...