Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone, long time reader first time poster.

before i start ill just let you know I'm no mechanic or car wiz! trying to learn though 

so i bought my first car (1993 r33 gts) when i was 17 and it is still my current car to this day being the third owner since imported. as the laws in my state don't allow high powered vehicles on P plates i opted for the NA version as I've always loved skylines and i found one for a good deal. over these 4 years I've done a fair bit of work to the car because i wanted it to be the best version of itself, the main things being brand new turbo gearbox with short shifter, heavy duty clutch, full body kit, new wheels, bc racing coilovers, moulded fenders, interior work and much more, fair to say this car is in way better shape now than when i bought it. i spent a while trying to make this car easy to swap a new engine into when I'm on my full license but I've read forums saying "no point" or "just sell it and buy a turbo its not worth the effort" so i guess my question is do you guys think it can be a reliable enough  swap that's worth doing if done right or just f**k it off and buy a new car? 

ps. every time people look up my rego at car stores, mechanics etc. it comes back as a gtst so i think it was possibly imported as a gtst and has been swapped out prior to me owning it, as I've been told i also have all the gtst badges on my car. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478918-is-it-worth-it/
Share on other sites

It's not worth it.

But interesting point, it may have been de-turboed before you got it. The build plate in on the firewall will tell you, either post up a pic of it or let us know the main string of letters/numbers, something like ER33-0123456

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478918-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-7917590
Share on other sites

Depends on how much 'common sense' you want to apply. So you can start with the easy one, it will be cheaper to buy a turbo car rather then converting yours. 

So that leaves it to, how much do you love your current car? 

My swift is on it's, 3rd engine rebuild, 7th gearbox, etc... you get the idea. It does not make financial sense to do this but I love it and won't let it go. 

I'm sentimental about cars, my vote is convert it - but go full mental when you do. Eg when you drop the motor in, make sure its forged. When you upgrade the brakes, throw on some 6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears. Try to avoid using any stock turbo skyline parts and go to what the turbo guys are upgrading to and skip the middle step. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478918-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-7917599
Share on other sites

Hello Dylan,
I'm really curious about it possibly being a converted factory turbo. Keep us posted.

But back to the question, what if you treated it as if the motor hit 250,000km and the motor spun a bearing or something? Would you drop in another non turbo motor or would you swap in a RB25DET?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478918-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-7917700
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ERO54N said:

Hello Dylan,
I'm really curious about it possibly being a converted factory turbo. Keep us posted.

But back to the question, what if you treated it as if the motor hit 250,000km and the motor spun a bearing or something? Would you drop in another non turbo motor or would you swap in a RB25DET?

Drop in wrecker RB25DE ($1700? ISH, http://www.brisbanemotorimports.com.au/engines/petrol-engines/nissan/r34-rb25de-neo ) , then sell GT to buy GTT.

It's not just the engine swap and parts required, it's rego, insurance, resale down the track, a stockish GT will be easy to sell to a P plater, a GT modified with a turbo removes the P plater option for sale, and, personally, I wouldn't buy it for fear of reliability issues and legalities.

They make a turbo model, buying a GTT would be the sensible choice.

Disclaimer: I turbo charged a Toyota 86, in saying that, there was no turbo option for rhe 86, the $10k that was used will never be recouped, and most insurance companies don't want to talk to me, and the ones that do want both my kidneys.

Meh.

It has been done though, alot of times, again, meh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/478918-is-it-worth-it/#findComment-7917707
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...