Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello!

Wasn't able to find info on this anywhere other than seeing some youtube dyno videos.

So i am in the process of building a rb34 stroker with 25 head for my s13 street/drag car and i was wondering how much power i will be ok for with the stock main cap girdle? My goal is 1100-1200 crank hp, ive seen some on yt running around that with the stock girdle. Also as this is a 2wd setup it wont flex the block as much on lauches as a 4wd would? Im gonna have arp 2k main studs and line bored.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479059-rb30-stock-girdle-strenght/
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Not sure why you think 2wd or 4wd will make any difference. Rips racing makes a girdle and I think Spool have a copy.

Because theres a diff in the oil pan? pretty sure thats what everyone says when you add power to a gtr that it might crack the block from twisting it because of the diff... i know they do and prp does but what im asking is do i need one for the power im aiming for in a rwd application.

10 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

The oil pan is much stronger in an awd than the 2wd. If you don't need  girdle for 1200hp then who does?

Is your next question do you need to grout fill the block?

Okay so you obviously have never heard of gtrs cracking blocks... Obviously im going to grout fill it why the f**k are you so hostile? Most of these engines are in 4wd applications atleast the ones i've seen in gtrs. They have a prp girdle in most of them for the 4wd conversion and for the strenght. But some people dont use one also some running the sohc rb30s at 1200hp with stocl girdle..... Oil pan has nothing to do with stock main cap streght btw.

The general consensus is that aftermarket front diffs do have a tendency to twist the blocks more. As such, having a proper brace along with billet caps seems to keep that issue at bay. I personally prefer the billet brace from RIPS, however it is expensive - Although if you're pushing 11-1200hp then I would recommend that over the prp braces(Not that they're inferior, but mainly a personal choice as I'm running the RIPS kit).

As for your original question, I'm not sure you want to try and find out how long that piece of string is do you?

1 hour ago, Anttirb said:

Okay so you obviously have never heard of gtrs cracking blocks... Obviously im going to grout fill it why the f**k are you so hostile? Most of these engines are in 4wd applications atleast the ones i've seen in gtrs. They have a prp girdle in most of them for the 4wd conversion and for the strenght. But some people dont use one also some running the sohc rb30s at 1200hp with stocl girdle..... Oil pan has nothing to do with stock main cap streght btw.

Why so rude?

You are the one who brought up the oil pan.

If you can't understand my answer then I'll spell it out: Yes a girdle would be a good idea.

But since you have already decided that you don't need one because 2wd I don't know why you asked the question.

11 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Why so rude?

You are the one who brought up the oil pan.

If you can't understand my answer then I'll spell it out: Yes a girdle would be a good idea.

But since you have already decided that you don't need one because 2wd I don't know why you asked the question.

Why so rude? Because you are talking to me.like im a child... I dont have experience with rb30s yet so that is why im asking about it?? 

 

And no i havent decided yet obviously why the f**k would i even ask if i had.

The RB30 block is taller (than smaller RBs) and not particularly well braced in the casting (like all RBs). That makes it a little more prone to deflections. From what I can gather, while the stock girdle, when run with a grout fill, is probably good enough at the power levels you're talking about, it is relatively cheap insurance to throw some more money at it to stop it flinging all your expensive internals all over the engine bay. Face it - 30 blocks are all vintage items now and you can either argue that the ones that are left are the survivors or you can argue that they're all going to be aging out. It is a crap shoot and you can only ever run the experiment on a given block the once.

if youre going to be chasing power then get a block brace - no question. These days its not difficult to make 1000hp and you will find the limits of what you dont upgrade very quickly.

theres some shit on FB about PRP's finding being bogus. maybe its true, maybe its bullshit. one thing is for sure, all the rbs making power (not including billet blocks users) run those braces so it cant be a gimmick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...