Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After nearly 2 years, I finally got my car “running”. January 2018 I blew my gearbox and didn’t bother getting it replaced because I went overseas for over a year and I just come back last July. So a couple of weeks ago I got my car back from the mechanic.

i got the clutch and gearbox replaced. It’s a R34 GTT and I got the pull type gearbox and a brand new exedy heavy duty clutch. I had also got a few things done in the engine bay such as re sealing the rocker\valve cover and changing a couple of turbo gaskets and IACV gasket.

The first problem is when the clutch pedal is pressed down, it sometimes makes this loud winding/grinding noise. It only makes the sound when I’m stationary. So I put it in gear and as the pedal is pressed down, a loud noise comes from the transmission. When I take it out of gear and put it back to neutral, the sound goes away. It doesn’t do this all the time, but I realised when I cold start the car it does it a lot. After driving for ten mins or so it seems to go away (can’t say for sure though didn’t drive it for more than 30 mins). Like it said, it makes this sound when the clutch pedal is pressed down only and while stationary. I put Lightweight Shockproof oil in the gearbox.

The other problem is the car won’t rev past 3000rpm and around 0.38 bar which is about 5psi ish. The car would normally run 12psi. It’s a r34 rb25det neo op6 stock turbo and I got a power fc tune. I think it’s important to note that the engine got started for the first time in nearly 2 years a couple of weeks back. When in neutral the car would rev past 3000. Also the screen on my power fc hand controller won’t turn on anymore but the buttons still light up. Unplugging and plugging it back in didn’t change anything. I get a feeling the car is in limp mode only because the boost is cutting out around stock factory psi levels but I could be wrong. 

Any help would be appreciated I really want to drive my car again!! Thank you

 

Edited by IM-32-FK

Ok the noise is your release bearing. Should have been replaced when clutch was done. If not, don't use that mechanic again... Unless the sound is there for a little while when you put your foot on the clutch then stops after a bit? If it does that then it's spigot bush in the crank. Again, should always be done during clutch replacement. 

With the rev limit, is it revving cleanly or is it stuttering and carrying on to get up to its max revs?

4 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Ok the noise is your release bearing. Should have been replaced when clutch was done. If not, don't use that mechanic again... Unless the sound is there for a little while when you put your foot on the clutch then stops after a bit? If it does that then it's spigot bush in the crank. Again, should always be done during clutch replacement. 

With the rev limit, is it revving cleanly or is it stuttering and carrying on to get up to its max revs?

I guess I’ll have to go take it back to him to get it sorted with no extra charge. The winding grinding noise is so loud that I can tell it’s not a normal sound the clutch should make. I didn’t leave it in gear or release the clutch pedal when it makes the sound, I quickly put it in neutral

with the rev limit, it revs out cleaning up until it reaches 3000ish and around 0.38 bar, when won’t rev past that.

Edited by IM-32-FK

Stock wastegate spring pressure is 5 psi. That is very close to 0.38 bar. I would suggest that your boost control solenoid is not functioning. This could be because it is stuck, or because the PowerFC has lost its mind after being left for 2 years (possible, but it really shouldn't happen). Or it might be a plumbing problem.

If the PowerFC has lost its mind, then it could explain everything.

58 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Stock wastegate spring pressure is 5 psi. That is very close to 0.38 bar. I would suggest that your boost control solenoid is not functioning. This could be because it is stuck, or because the PowerFC has lost its mind after being left for 2 years (possible, but it really shouldn't happen). Or it might be a plumbing problem.

If the PowerFC has lost its mind, then it could explain everything.

I just had a look at it and took the blitz dual sbc electronic boost controller solenoid off. I blew into the solenoid and I can feel the air escaping from the other end. Also on the solenoid, the plastic nipple was connected to the actuator and the metal nipple is connected to a nipple on the turbo elbow. The hose coming from the intake/bov return is blocked off. There are no T piece connectors or anything like that. Is it set up correctly? I also blew into the vacuum hoses and don’t they feel blocked as I can feel the air escaping from the other end.

also on my previous post I meant to say “ it revs out CLEANLY up until 0.38 bar and 3000ish rpm”

also could the problem be the AFM? it was sitting on my garage shelf for a year and a half a lot of dust could’ve settled in it which could be causing problems. What product do you use to clean AFM’s? Carby cleaner?

Edited by IM-32-FK
23 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

Also on the solenoid, the plastic nipple was connected to the actuator and the metal nipple is connected to a nipple on the turbo elbow. The hose coming from the intake/bov return is blocked off. There are no T piece connectors or anything like that. Is it set up correctly?

No way to tell from that description. Draw a diagram. Clearly label the ports on the solenoid, and mark which are connected when it is unpowered and which are connected when it is powered.

 

24 minutes ago, IM-32-FK said:

also could the problem be the AFM? it was sitting on my garage shelf for a year and a half a lot of dust could’ve settled in it which could be causing problems. What product do you use to clean AFM’s? Carby cleaner?

Dust shouldn't affect it. Any dust that can settle should blow off pretty quick. The correct cleaner for AFMs is CO contact cleaner or the dedicated spray stuff for AFMs.

Ok I labeled the image but I don’t understand what you meant when saying powered and unpowered . Also there are no t pieces or any other connectors on the hoses that go anywhere else , they just connected from one end to the other

1E92D1CC-F552-45D0-9DBC-1248DEA1A112.jpeg

Edited by IM-32-FK

That does not look to me like the correct solenoid for a Blitz Dual SBC. That looks a lot like the single Blitz solenoid.

"Powered" means "when you put 12V onto the terminals and power it". "Unpowered" means.....you guessed it....

Anyway, you can google up the connection diagrams for these things and see how they are supposed to be plumbed up. Better you doing it than me.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

That does not look to me like the correct solenoid for a Blitz Dual SBC. That looks a lot like the single Blitz solenoid.

"Powered" means "when you put 12V onto the terminals and power it". "Unpowered" means.....you guessed it....

Anyway, you can google up the connection diagrams for these things and see how they are supposed to be plumbed up. Better you doing it than me.

Yeh I looked it up and it is a single blitz solenoid. But it doesn’t matter, it was on the car when I bought it 5 years ago , so I don’t think it’s an issue.

Also I looked at a couple of videos and the connections seem right( one end to turbine housing and the other to the wastegate actuator.)

  • 4 months later...

Anyway, I got the problem fixed a while back and thought I might post the solution here just in case someone runs into the same problem in the future.

- I changed my spark plugs from ngk bcpr7es -8 to ngk bcpr6es -8 . I’m running 12psi boost on rb25det neo so I had the wrong ones in there. (Bcpr7es -8 is used when running from 12-19psi)

- I changed all my coil packs from OEM to spitfire

- I cleaned the inside of the boost solenoid with contact/electrical cleaner. Black soot came out of it.

- I cleaned the inside of the air flow meter (AFM) with contact cleaner as well. There was ALOT of black soot residue in there. I had to use half a can to get all of it out (make sure you wipe the inside and the mesh netting too to get all of it out but don’t touch the sensor thingy in the middle of it with the cloth)

I don’t know which one solved the problem but it was one of them.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...