Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I realise this has been done before but having disappeared down the rabbit hole I am thoroughly confused.

Most of the old SAU threads have busted photo bucket photos or confuse the mode door (ie where the air goes to) with the mix door (Which controls how hot it is). I have a shiney new mode door actuator (Part #27731-53E00 I believe, photo attached) off ebay in Japan for a half reasonable price.  The mix door is possibly discontinued? (Part number 2773201U00).  Also drawing 27733NA is used for Im not quite sure what but matches other cars.

Can someone please confirm the part number is correct for an R32 GTR, are there other models with the same part and/or where I may be able to find a used one that I can fix?  (Part number 2773201U00) 

Sorry for the dumb questions but someone out there may have done this lately.  I just dont want to tear the console apart only to do half the job.

20200124_063319.jpg

Well, I can confirm they are the part numbers for my 32 gtr's vin as well.

Mix door actuator - 27732-01U00

Mode door actuator - 27731-53E00

My understanding (of the impossible FAST diagram section 270) is that part code 27733N is just the actuator, while 27733NA is the actuator, bracket and wiring.

Also, I have a heater box on the shelf and can take some pics if you need. No part number on either actuator to confirm physically though.

Are you just trying to replace both as preventative, or is there a problem you are trying to fix?

Hi

I have removed most of the interior recently and will be replacing both sides including motors. I was able to buy almost all of the parts new but had to source from a few different suppliers.

Assuming that you are wanting to buy the "mix" door motor AKA "blend" door motor which is the one that jams and pumps hot air into the cabin, then I *think* that the part that you are after is 27742-77S60:

SNAG-1072.thumb.png.031c089396e83c066994b97a6c5ce1d4.png

I can take pics of the parts that I have purchased recently later in the week. i think that I bought the above from RHDJapan

Cheers

Rob

18 hours ago, Duncan said:

Well, I can confirm they are the part numbers for my 32 gtr's vin as well.

Mix door actuator - 27732-01U00

Mode door actuator - 27731-53E00

My understanding (of the impossible FAST diagram section 270) is that part code 27733N is just the actuator, while 27733NA is the actuator, bracket and wiring.

Also, I have a heater box on the shelf and can take some pics if you need. No part number on either actuator to confirm physically though.

Are you just trying to replace both as preventative, or is there a problem you are trying to fix?

The mode door is stuffed as I usually get stuck with air on the windscreen.

The mix door is the same as no amount of fiddling gets the temperature to change.

So its half preventative (On the assumption its not the head unit) and half a fix.  I get sick of it not working properly and just want it fixed.

14 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:

Hi

I have removed most of the interior recently and will be replacing both sides including motors. I was able to buy almost all of the parts new but had to source from a few different suppliers.

Assuming that you are wanting to buy the "mix" door motor AKA "blend" door motor which is the one that jams and pumps hot air into the cabin, then I *think* that the part that you are after is 27742-77S60:

SNAG-1072.thumb.png.031c089396e83c066994b97a6c5ce1d4.png

I can take pics of the parts that I have purchased recently later in the week. i think that I bought the above from RHDJapan

Cheers

Rob

Rob, If you could confirm that as I cant find a mix door on RHD Japan that would help a heap.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

With these things it's possible to dismantle, clean and lube and they work again.

That is sort of plan B, notwithstanding I tend to fk things rather than fix them.

The mode door was $120 and thats brand new so if the mix door could be had for anywhere near the same I would be well happy with that.

Sorry, it was actually JustJap but I checked and they don't have it advertised any longer.

Picking up on what  @GTSBoy suggested, another thing you may wish to try is one of the common problems that causes the blend door motor to stop functioning, is poor wiring contact. There is a temporary workaround that involves jamming cardboard behind the plug to keep it in place. There are quite a few posts on SAU about it. Not elegant but it may be worth trying until you can find a replacement or just to isolate the fault.

Well that's that idea pharked then.

Regarding your order 93813;
Unfortunately the Nissan OEM part ordered has now been discontinued and the manufacturers are unable to supply us. Apologies for the inconveniences.

Inconveniences. So many inconveniences.

  • Sad 1

Had a spare (dead) mode door actuator.  Pulled it apart (the hard bit there are the 5 clips you have to release) and had a look.  Basically one of the plastic gears (the one in red) had near on seized on the shaft.  Removed the gear (and the one next to it) Gave the seized one a ream and some lube and will see if it can be bought back from the dead.  Hoping the blend door is much the same.

20200219_082150 2.jpg

20200219_082203 3.jpg

  • Like 2

Spent the morning pulling the mix door actuator out and replacing the mode door. Prick of a job. Mix door appear to have a couple dry joints in it but by god they are tiny. Will resolder and hope like hell it works again.

Edited by djr81

Some more, minor progress.  On the mode door the shaft that locates the worm wheel (the driven gear, not the drive gear) is basically 3.5mm.  The next size up drill bit from that was 9/64" but that went straight through the gear.  Anyway went to a 5/32" (Which is a bees dick down from 4mm) and drilled the wheel out.  Remounted it and the gears now turn.  So without knowing how it affects the longevity of the thing I reckon this may be the way to fix your R32 mode door actuator. Hash tag fixie fixie something hashtag.

As for the mix door there looks to be a couple (Atleast) dry joints.  The mix door doesn't appear to have the same material for the worm wheel either so guessing it is just solder that is the issue.

20200222_103846.jpg

20200222_103740.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...