Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DETT r34 gTT auto cruising along at 100km/h

take foot of accelerator and engine revs down to idle 800-1100r/min

apply the accelerator and car revs upto 3k before any power is produced 
 

this happens for about 5min a day interminable but most days 

I have pulled over turned the engine off and on then it’s fine 
 

Anyone  experience this before? 
what was the problem? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479878-engine-misbehaving/
Share on other sites

Torque convertor is not locking up. Check your ATF level and condition. If level and condition good, Torque convertor probably cactus. If ATF is low or dark and dirty, get it serviced, punch self in face.

Edited by Rusty Nuts
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
8 hours ago, Gunna said:

Two months ago I asked them to check that said it’s fine when I got a new timing belt and water pump 

You don't need a mechanic to check the colour/quality of the ATF or to check the level. Do those things first.

12 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Check your ATF level and condition. If level and condition good, Torque convertor probably cactus.

As previously suggested.Last chance check lock up solenoid is working. Have codes read,the TCU will store a lock up solenoid fault code.

Edited by Rusty Nuts

Wow look at these bitches if I wanted to see mean girls I would put on Netflix 

 

after reading everyone’s response it saddens me  that this community isn’t for me 

I was looking for enthusiastic group that is looking out for members, being said there aren’t too many Trusting mechanics That are worthy of touching a skyline 

being ripped off or troubleshooting in the wrong direction wastes time and money, that in my experience most mechanics thrive on especially in this economic situation, the only reassurance that one may get is maybe a forum of likeminded people do steer you in the right direction, how wrong I was 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Gunna said:

Wow look at these bitches if I wanted to see mean girls I would put on Netflix 

 

after reading everyone’s response it saddens me  that this community isn’t for me 

I was looking for enthusiastic group that is looking out for members, being said there aren’t too many Trusting mechanics That are worthy of touching a skyline 

being ripped off or troubleshooting in the wrong direction wastes time and money, that in my experience most mechanics thrive on especially in this economic situation, the only reassurance that one may get is maybe a forum of likeminded people do steer you in the right direction, how wrong I was 

 

 

 

And by the way bro, all of the responses have actually been helpful , you pretty much ignored them just chasing the answer you are after, which I assume is that it is an easy fix that you can do. You can't fix it.

2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

Heu man have you true turning it off and on?

Yes?

that fixed it?

well keep doing that. Problem solved.

 

Literally what I did with my R31 when it was auto.

The fluid was old, would lock into 2nd (limp home mode).

Was scared it was solenoids, but luckily fluid change fixed it.

Permanent fix: manual conversion.

On 3/4/2020 at 7:53 AM, Gunna said:

I was looking for enthusiastic group that is looking out for members, being said there aren’t too many Trusting mechanics That are worthy of touching a skyline 

being ripped off or troubleshooting in the wrong direction wastes time and money, that in my experience most mechanics thrive on especially in this economic situation, the only reassurance that one may get is maybe a forum of likeminded people do steer you in the right direction, how wrong I was

Told you what to check, then you chuck a hissy fit. WTF.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...