Selli160 Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Bit of background. So, car had been running rough for the past month or so where I’d get no power on boost at all basically almost felt like it was na. Checked for boost leaks, replaced plugs and coil packs compression test all fine still no progress. After about a month of scratching my head thought I’d check the ignition timing to see if that’s the issue. Got the coil cover off and CAS lose ready to adjust everything but as I went to check it all turns out my shit supercheap timing light decided to stop working. So, I put it all back together making sure to put the CAS back in its original spot so not to stuff everything up. Went for a driver and after about 20 mins car hesitated pretty violently jerking the car a bit. Kind of like fuel cut would feel like. And then 10 seconds later it all goes to shit and starts misfiring like crazy. Its struggling to stay at idle without me giving it some throttle. Then bam like the flick of a switch completely back to normal. and then a minute later it happened again misfiring like crazy. It stalls like twice as I’m trying to get it off the road to a side street its parked now and not starting at all, let her sit for about 5 minutes and tried to start it again. fired up perfectly normally and idled for a few mins completely fine and then again lots of misfiring and it died and wouldn’t start. I came back the next day to see if I could get it home because I only lived 2 mins down the road and f**k getting a tow truck for that. But same thing again stated fine got halfway there and it started to shit itself again, lucky I was on a hill so I could just roll her home. So in a nutshell Car has a intermittent misfire with no specific trigger. comes and goes every few mins. So, since its intermittent like that it’s pretty obvious its not mechanical issue. That seems like a pretty fair statement to make right? Therefore, its most likely a electrical issue. Something to do with a sensor or ecu. My best guess from my research is that its Either the AFM or CAS sensor that’s causing the issues. especially since i was fiddling arounds with the CAS sensor earlier. Does this sound about right to anyone? Thanks Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479879-suspected-cam-or-afm-problems/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSBoy Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Could also be fuel pump. Could be mechanical - on drive side of CAS. The drive has been known to be broken by donkeys. Unplug the AFM and see how it runs. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479879-suspected-cam-or-afm-problems/#findComment-7925767 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selli160 Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 Hadn’t thought of the fuel pump could be the problem ill add it to the list of possible problems. I’m guessing your talking about the little tongue on the back of the CAS sensor that slots into the cam shaft. Seems to be all good had another look but made sure that it lined up and slotted in nicely the first time anyway. Unplugged maf at idle. Ran a little rougher than normal I’m not sure what that proves though? Thanks for the suggestions ? Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479879-suspected-cam-or-afm-problems/#findComment-7925770 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTSBoy Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 If unplugging the AFM didn't make it better, then it probably isn't the AFM at fault. It's a standard check - the ECU can limp along without the AFM. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479879-suspected-cam-or-afm-problems/#findComment-7925773 Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiwiRS4T Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Spin the CAS to see if it has a rough bearing. If so it may go ok for a bit and then seize up. Link to comment https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479879-suspected-cam-or-afm-problems/#findComment-7925777 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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