Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently purchased my first bnr32 and I am pumped!! It has nismo coilovers but otherwisebis pretty much stock. I will be adding power to it soon, and found a good deal on some r33 brembo calipers only. I have a few questions. I have searched ALOT but havent found an answer yet. 

1. What rotors do i use? Im wanting 2 piece rotors and want to know what to buy. 

2. What brake lines do i go with? Im wanting steel lines and dont know if i will need custom or not. 

3. What brake master cylinder? My car is a 94 and im pretty sure it has abs so im think the bm57? Will a 300zx one work or does it have to be an r33 or r32 one? 

Thank you for the help!

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/479984-r33-gtr-brembos-on-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Well, this has kind of been covered here before, and I don't know where you are because you didn't fill in the location field of your profile....but answers are:

1. You need to move from 296mm rotor to 324mm rotor for r33/r34 gtr. eg DB5928 for 2 piece slotted.

2. Standard lines fit fine. R33/34 brembos were standard fitment on R32 vspec I and II models too.

3. Keep the standard master cylinder, it will be fine. 

You may need to trim or push back the backing plates behind the rotors, but otherwise that is a straight fit upgrade to an r32.

  • Like 1
2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You will need 326mm rotors. DBA have both 1 piece and 2 piece if you have money to burn.

I can help with rotors and pads please DM.

typo sorry :(

DBA4928 = DBA4000

DBA5928.1S = DBA5000

hey m8 mise well install a new set of pads while you got the caliper out. will last a very long time if so. might even be good time to have the calipers powder coated with a new Brembo decal keeping her clean! I wish I did this with mine before I got horny and just threw them on for 50 thousand km lol they have become faded and need a facelift. the backplate for caliper I had to cut a bit. here's a pic of mine installed with regas. took me 1.5 hour per side taking my time. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...