Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone. So I installed my Hicas delete kit.(picture below). After install,  i had my alignment done. The bushings are the ones I installed that came with it. Now when I drive and shifting through gears, i feel my rear end wanting to fish tail a little. Is this normal? I'm driving an r33 gtst. Just want to know so I don't take her back to garage to get them to look it over again. 

15850554916634866986402043585056.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480021-hicas-delete-question/
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

If it's all bolted up properly and the alignment is good, just keep driving it. You'll get used to the changes with more seat time. 

Oh ok. My daily is an S2000 and it doesn't feel like that at all. 

I’ve heard this before after hicas removal, check your bolts and what not make sure everything is right. drive it for a bit if you can’t stand It try a different alignment or find a gtr lol. Just kidding should be fine alignment may just not suit your driving style.

On 3/24/2020 at 5:28 PM, GTSBoy said:

What is the rear toe after the alignment?

I really have no idea. I have a 6 month warranty in the alignment. If I were to take her back, is there a number I should be shooting for her? All I know is that it is in the green. 

38 minutes ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

I’ve heard this before after hicas removal, check your bolts and what not make sure everything is right. drive it for a bit if you can’t stand It try a different alignment or find a gtr lol. Just kidding should be fine alignment may just not suit your driving style.

Ok. I do have a warranty on the alignment. If I were to take her back to redo the alignment, is there a rear setting I should be shooting for or just make sure she is in the green?

2 minutes ago, Aphonechanh said:

I really have no idea. I have a 6 month warranty in the alignment. If I were to take her back, is there a number I should be shooting for her? All I know is that it is in the green. 

Toe out would be way twitchy. Zero toe should be very easy to disturb. Toe in should be more stable.

Be aware that static toe, as measured on the rack, may completely change when the vehicle is moving, particularly if you have stuffed bushes in any of the arms.

You should have got a sheet with your alignment telling you your numbers...I got a feeling your alignment is not wrong just not set up the way you want it. I know when we get alignments done around here you can see the whole review of what they did and your final numbers. 

Do this for the rear, if you want some stability.

  • -1 degree camber (these things camber in hard when they squat)
  • 1mm toe in each side (2mm total toe in, on squat these shit boxes toe out)

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...